The fastest way to crate train a dog is to teach them to relax, not just tolerate confinement, through a slow 4-day progression: secure setup, voluntary in-and-out, a gradual door, and growing distance. Alyssa Rose walks through the exact process she used with her own dog, Merlin.
What happens on Days 1–2 of crate training?
Fix three physical details first: secure the door open with Velcro, keep bedding simple (fleece over a thin foam pad), and muffle a noisy tray with a mat underneath. Then, on Day 1, reinforce voluntary in-and-out with no closed door at all. What to watch for: the dog wandering out, then walking back in on their own, unasked. That voluntary return is the real signal.
Why add an exercise pen during crate training?
Most people can't go as slow as they know they should, since dinner and emails don't pause for training. An exercise pen around the crate, door still secured open, lets you keep structure while the dog builds comfort at their own pace. Keep it somewhere the dog still feels connected to the family, with access to small comforts like a sunny spot or a window.
When should you introduce the crate door?
This is where most crate training unravels, because most people rush it. First just move the door slightly while reinforcing, not closing it. If that goes well, close it fully for one second and reinforce. The door itself often carries meaning for a dog (confinement, separation), so it's worth introducing slowly and watching the response before moving faster.
How do you build distance once your dog is comfortable?
One or two steps away, then return and reinforce. It's small enough to feel almost silly, but it's often where a dog first learns that a person moving away doesn't mean being abandoned. Two steps becomes five, then across the room, then brief moments fully out of sight. The goal is proving that people leaving and returning is ordinary, not testing endurance.
Why reinforce with meals instead of petting?
Leaning over to pet or praise a settling dog turns a quiet moment into a social event and raises arousal right when they're downshifting. Hand-feeding portions of their regular breakfast or dinner during short sessions matches the calm state you're building instead of working against it, using a resource you already have.
How do you know your dog is truly relaxed in the crate?
Watch for a sigh, a softer expression, a slower body: a dog settling because it feels natural. This is the same underlying skill taught in Mat Work, the foundation of the Base Training Method™, just applied to a contained space instead of an open mat. If you see stress signals like panting, pawing, or whining, go back to the last step that felt easy.
Full Video Transcript+
If your dog seems like they're always
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on, always pacing, always getting into
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things, always looking for the next
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thing to do, you've probably heard
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someone suggest using a crate to manage
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the unwanted challenges.
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And while crates can be incredibly
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valuable, simply confining a high energy
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dog in a crate doesn't necessarily teach
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them how to settle.
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In many cases, dogs learn how to
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tolerate the crate, but they never truly
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learn how to relax there. Dogs will
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stress swine, bark, scratch at the
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crate,
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or they might explode out of the crate
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with even more energy than when they
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went in, almost like a spring that's
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been compressed and finally released.
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And that's why I don't think about crate
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training as teaching dogs to tolerate
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confinement. I use crate training as an
The Goal of Crate Training
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opportunity to teach dogs how to relax.
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It becomes a safe place they can return
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to when they need rest or when life
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feels overwhelming. And the good news is
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that this process can help even if your
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dog didn't have the best introduction to
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the crate. Now, if you're the type of
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person that doesn't love the idea of
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using a crate, I get it. I used to feel
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that way, too. Here's what made me
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reconsider. At some point, your dog may
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need to stay overnight at the vet,
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recover from injury, travel in a crate,
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or spend time in an unfamiliar
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environment. And when that happens,
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you're going to be glad that you spent
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the time to do this more intentionally.
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A crate that feels safe and familiar can
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be one of the most calming things you
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can give a dog in an otherwise stressful
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experience. In this video, I'm going to
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walk you through the same progression I
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used with Merlin over the course of 4
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days as he learned to settle in a new
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environment. These are the same
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exercises I use to help anxious and
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easily overstimulated dogs learn how to
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settle in a day-to-day life. So, if your
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dog is anxious, hyperactive, fearful,
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sensitive to outside sounds, or just
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doesn't seem to have an off switch, this
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video is for them.
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Crate training, teaching relaxation, not
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just confinement.
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There are three things I want you to
3 Crate Setup Mistakes to Avoid
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think about before we even bring the dog
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near the crate. Number one, the door.
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Many crate doors swing, rattle, or
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occasionally close on their own. That
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may not seem like a big deal to us, but
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for a dog that is just beginning to
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explore the space, an unexpected sound
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or movement can create uncertainty right
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from the start. So, one of the first
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things I often do is secure the door
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open. I use Velcro. It's simple. cheap
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and effective. I want the dog to be able
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to investigate the crate without
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worrying that the door might move, make
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noise, or close behind them.
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Number two, the blankets. I also pay
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attention to what's inside. I keep
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bedding simple, a fleece blanket with a
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thin foam pad underneath, not too bulky
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because some dogs actually like to
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reposition their blankets, and something
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that's too thick can get in the way of
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that. At this stage, my goal isn't
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confinement. My goal is comfort.
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Number three, the tray. The bottom tray
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of some crates will pop when a dog steps
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inside.
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Did you hear that sound? Did you notice
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his response? It might seem like a small
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detail, but for a dog that's already
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uncertain about the space, that sudden
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sound can be unsettling. A simple fix,
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slide a mat or folded blanket underneath
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the tray. It muffles a sound and can
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make an almost immediate difference in
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how willing a dog is to step inside.
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This is a small detail, but it can have
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a big impact. All right, let's go back
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to day one.
The First Crate Training Session
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In these early sessions, I'm not asking
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Merlin to stay. I'm not closing the door
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and I'm not trying to convince him that
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he has to be there. I'm simply
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reinforcing his decision to step inside
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and then releasing him after just a few
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seconds.
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After I release him, something
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interesting happens. He wanders out,
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looks around, gathers a little
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information, and then he walks back in
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on his own. Nobody asked him to. He just
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chose to return. These voluntary choices
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are often the strongest signal that
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we're moving in the right direction.
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One of the biggest challenges with crate
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training is that most people simply
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can't go slow enough. We know we should
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take our time. We know we need to build
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positive associations, but eventually we
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need to leave the house, make dinner,
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answer emails, and keep the dog from
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practicing those unwanted behaviors.
Why I Use Exercise Pens
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And that's where exercise pens and gated
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areas can become incredibly helpful. I
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like to place the crate inside the
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exercise pen and leave the crate door
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secured open. This allows us to continue
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providing structure while giving the dog
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more time to develop genuine comfort
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with the crate itself. Where you
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position the pen matters, too. Whenever
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possible, I place it somewhere the dog
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can still feel connected to the family.
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For most dogs, isolation makes
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relaxation harder. I like the dog to
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feel included while still having a
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clearly defined space of their own. I
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also like to position the pen in a way
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that gives the dog access to simple
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comforts, a sunny spot to lie in, a
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cooler area if they get warm, a soft
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blanket. Some dogs also benefit from a
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nearby window where they can quietly
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observe the world. The exercise pen
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still requires training. I'm not simply
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placing the dog in the pen and hoping
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they'll relax. We're going to teach them
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how to settle. The difference is that
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the larger space gives the dog more
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freedom of movement and it makes it
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easier for us to move at their pace. One
How to Reinforce Relaxation
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thing that surprises a lot of people is
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how easy it is to make relaxation
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harder. Sometimes we might notice our
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dog behaving calmly and we want to
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reinforce them with petting or appraise.
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Oh, good boy. We lean over, pet them,
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tell them they're such a good dog, and
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before we know it, we've turned a quiet
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moment into a social event.
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Instead of creating excitement, I want
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my reinforcement to match the emotional
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state I'm trying to build. For that
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reason, when a dog is settling, I tend
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to avoid a lot of physical interaction.
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Instead, I use the dog's meals.
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Throughout the day, I hand feed portions
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of their regular breakfast or dinner
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during short, intentional training
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sessions. In Merlin's case, most of the
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food used during training came from his
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daily meals. We're simply using
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resources that already exist to build
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the experiences we want.
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Good boy.
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The food becomes a quiet way of
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reinforcing the choices I want to see.
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Training with crate in exercise pen. Day
Before You Close the Door
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two.
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Before I begin introducing the door, I
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spend some time revisiting the same
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exercises we worked on the day before. I
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do this because the picture has changed.
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We now have an exercise pen surrounding
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the crate, and I want to make sure he's
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just as comfortable with this setup as
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he was with the crate by itself. So, I
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slow down. I sit with him, kneel beside
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the crate. reinforce him for being
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inside. Sometimes he's standing,
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sometimes he's sitting, sometimes he's
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lying down. I also give him breaks so
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that he can process the training and so
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that I can simply observe how he
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interacts with the environment when
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reinforcement stops. These initial steps
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shouldn't be rushed.
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What we are hoping to see is a dog that
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enters without hesitation,
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settles with a little gentle
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encouragement,
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and exits without urgency, and
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eventually chooses to return on their
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own. Every time the picture changes, I
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want to make sure the dog is still
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feeling successful before I increase the
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difficulty. If this is what we see, then
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I know we're ready to continue building
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on that foundation.
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Closing the door. Day three. This is
Introducing the Crate Door
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where most people rush and where most
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crate training begins to unravel. The
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progression I use looks something like
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this. First, I begin to slowly move the
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door just slightly while the dog is
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inside, and I reinforce for remaining in
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the crate. I'm not closing it yet. I'm
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simply introducing the movement. The
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reason I do this is that the door itself
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often carries meaning for the dog. For
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most dogs, the sight or sound of the
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door closing represents confinement or
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separation, sometimes both. This is why
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it's important to introduce it gradually
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and see how they respond.
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If the dog is doing well, I fully close
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the door for a second and reinforce.
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Some dogs move through these steps in a
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session or two. Others need more time.
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Let your dog's behavior guide the pace.
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Good. Okay.
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Before I move to the next step, I
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quickly run through the same checklist.
9:40
Is the dog entering willingly, exiting
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calmly when released, and perhaps most
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importantly, choosing to return on their
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own? We are checking whether the
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foundation is strong enough to support
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the next step.
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Taking steps away. If the dog is
Preventing Separation Anxiety in the Crate
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genuinely comfortable with the
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exercises, I begin adding a little
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distance. I take one or two steps away,
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then I return and reinforce. At first,
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these distances seem almost ridiculously
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small. But those first few steps are
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often where dogs begin to realize that
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being separated from us doesn't mean
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they're being abandoned. We're teaching
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them that people can move, activity can
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happen, life can continue around them,
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and they can still remain safe,
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comfortable, and relaxed. As their
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confidence grows, those one or two steps
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become five steps. And eventually I can
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move to the other side of the room. And
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when the dog is genuinely comfortable
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with that picture, I begin introducing
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very brief moments out of sight.
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Just a second or two, then I return and
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reinforce. The goal isn't to see how
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long the dog can tolerate being alone.
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The goal is to help them repeatedly
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experience the pattern of having people
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leave and return without becoming
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concerned about it.
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Over time, those brief absences begin to
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feel ordinary. The dog begins to learn
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that people going out of sight doesn't
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predict isolation, stress, or
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uncertainty. It just starts to feel like
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everyday life. Each step moves forward
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when the dog is genuinely relaxed, not
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just tolerating the situation. If I'm
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seeing stress signals like panting,
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pawing, whining, repeated attempts to
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leave the crate or hesitation to enter,
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that's not a sign to push through.
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That's a sign to go back to a simpler
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variation of the training. My goal isn't
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to teach the dog to endure the crate. My
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goal is to help them feel comfortable
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there. And that happens most reliably
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when we move at a pace that the dog can
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confidently handle. There are times when
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a dog has had training. They've had time
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outside, opportunities to potty and to
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move their body. All their needs are
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met. At this point, they're ready to
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rest.
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This is when I will shift gears.
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In the early stages of training, I will
Helping Dogs Learn to Rest
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often pull up a chair, sit beside the
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crate with a cup of tea, and simply
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spend some quiet time there with the
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dog. Your calm presence can help your
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dog settle and relax. If we want the
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crate to become a place associated with
12:22
rest and relaxation, sometimes we need
12:24
to give the dog the experience of
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resting together in that space. No
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interaction, no training in the
12:30
traditional sense, just being calm
12:32
together. For many dogs, those moments
12:35
of quiet companionship can be an
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important part of helping the crate feel
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safe and comfortable. Remember the trick
12:42
with the Velcro strip and the open door?
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We can do the same thing with the
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exercise pen. When the door is secured
12:48
open, dogs can fully explore the crate
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without worrying that it might suddenly
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move or close. And this is where it all
12:55
starts to come together. When we remove
12:57
some of the pressure, a lot of dogs
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begin to explore the crate in a
13:01
completely different way.
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Dogs begin to orient to this space to
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get a drink of water,
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to find their favorite chew,
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and eventually to rest inside.
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The key point is make the crate the best
13:16
place to relax. And this is where
13:18
another piece of the puzzle comes in. If
Making the Crate More Appealing
13:20
I want the crate or exercise pen to
13:22
become the dog's preferred resting
13:24
space, I often make sure that it's the
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most comfortable option available.
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Sometimes that means temporarily
13:31
removing the other dog beds around the
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house. Sometimes it means guiding them
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off the couch and redirecting them to
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their resting space. At first, I may
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need to be fairly active in this
13:41
process, gently redirecting and
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reinforcing and helping the dog discover
13:46
where I want relaxation to happen. I'm
13:49
not trying to force the dog to stay
13:50
there. I'm simply helping them discover
13:52
that this is where the good stuff
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happens. Over time, those repetitions
13:57
begin to add up. The crate becomes
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familiar. The exercise pen becomes
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familiar. And eventually, the dog starts
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making those choices with less and less
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help from me. make resting in the crate
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the easy choice. Over time, the crate
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stops feeling like a place of
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confinement and starts feeling like a
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place of comfort. And when that happens,
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dogs begin choosing it on their own.
When the Crate Becomes Their Choice
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Voluntary choices. Day four. This is the
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moment I'm always watching for. A sigh,
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a softer expression, slower body, a dog
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that begins settling because it feels
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natural. By day four, something changes.
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I didn't ask Merlin to go into the
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crate. He simply walked in and chose to
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rest. This is what we're ultimately
14:44
working toward. A dog that begins making
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calmer choices on their own. Because the
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crate becomes associated with something
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that feels good. And the benefits of the
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crate extend beyond the crate itself.
14:56
Because once a dog learns how to relax,
14:58
that skill tends to carry over into lots
15:01
of different situations. One question
Nighttime Crate Training
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people often ask is, "What about
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nighttime?" And honestly, nighttime is
15:07
one of my favorite opportunities to
15:09
build positive associations with the
15:11
crate. Dogs are social animals. Most
15:14
dogs genuinely enjoy sleeping near their
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family. So, instead of placing the crate
15:18
in a separate room, I often recommend
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that people place the crate right next
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to the bed.
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This gives the dog the best of both
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worlds. They have the comfort of being
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close to their people. They can hear us
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breathing. They can smell us. They can
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see that we're nearby, but they also
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have their own clearly defined space to
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rest. Now, some dogs eventually do well
15:41
sleeping on the bed. But adolescent dogs
15:44
or hyperactive dogs are not always ready
15:47
for that level of freedom. And in
15:49
multi-dog households, unrestricted
15:51
access to the bed can sometimes make it
15:53
harder for everyone to relax. This is
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where I really love having a crate next
15:58
to the bed. The dog remains close to the
16:00
family, the older dog can rest
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comfortably, and everyone has their own
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space. If you've been practicing short
16:07
training sessions and creating calm
16:09
experiences during the day, then the
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nighttime becomes surprisingly easy. In
16:14
many cases, this creates a meaningful
16:16
leap forward in the training process. It
16:18
further solidifies the crate as a place
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that helps the dog feel rested and
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relaxed. These skills really are
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incredibly valuable throughout a dog's
16:26
life. And even if you eventually give
16:28
your dog free reign of the house, that
16:30
crate with the door open becomes a quiet
16:33
nook they can eventually choose on their
16:35
own. And if your dog is really
If Your Dog Already Hates the Crate
16:37
struggling with the crate or already has
16:38
very negative associations with it, I
16:40
have another video for you that breaks
16:42
crate training down into even smaller
16:45
steps. In that video, I'll show you how
16:47
to break crate training down into
16:48
manageable steps to build trust and
16:51
confidence. Check out that next video