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The people that will have the easiest time raising a puppy, are those that have realistic expectations for what a puppy is capable of, and the amount of structure that is required in raising them. Here are the most common gaps between an owner’s expectation and the reality of welcoming a puppy into your home.

01: Snuggle Time

The Expectation

People expect to log lots of snuggle time with their pup. They dream of running their hands over their puppy’s soft coat, as the puppy takes a loud exhale and curls up contentedly by their side. 

The Reality

The reality is that at times that you want to snuggle, your puppy will be more interested in using your hands and clothing as a chew toy. You will wonder if you brought home a puppy or a piranha. 

Avoid trying to “correct” the problem by tiring your puppy out with long play sessions, daycare and dog parks. Because these activities can be highly stimulating, you might actually find that your plan back fires and you wind up with a puppy that develops issues with being hyper-aroused. You might also hear people recommend using a loud OUCH sound to startle your puppy and get them to back off. This can also back fire. Some puppies actually get more excited with loud sounds. You’ve just become a large, interactive squeakie toy! Last but not least, you have probably heard at least one person suggest pinching your puppy’s lip, or holding their mouth closed. This approach might create a short-term fix, but it can also create a puppy that becomes very apprehensive about your approaching hand. The goal in raising a puppy is to promote a relationship based on trust and communication. Avoid using training methods or approaches that could set your relationship up for ruin.

Part of your job as a puppy parent is to teach your puppy that there are more acceptable outlets for this very normal, and natural tendency. This is a process that will take time for your puppy to learn, but it’s worth the time and effort to do it right. Your puppy’s ability to outgrow this tendency will be the result of a combination of factors: good management, training that promotes calm interactions with you, healthy play opportunities that exercises your puppy’s mind and body (like playing tug with you), and … time. Time? This is a developmental behavior that will not disappear over-night. Having realistic expectations can be a real game changer.

02: Puppy Proofing

The Expectation

People expect that “puppy proofing” is a fairly simple process. They think, “how much trouble could this little guy get into?” And they reject the idea of crates, baby gates, and exercise pens as being too restrictive. 

The Reality

The reality is that a puppy’s brain is built for exploration and creativity, and will find objects you didn’t even know you owned. He will bite, pull and/or shred anything that’s not nailed to the ground. You’ve bought a plethora -+of different chew toys, but his default is always to pull at the threads of the rug, eat electrical cords (ouch) or chew on table legs when he feels bored. Get down on all four paws and think like a puppy. Got dog toys? Awesome. Just make sure you’re not leaving ALL of them out at one time. Choose 3-4 toys and rotate them every day or every other day. Watch your puppy light up when they have access to a toy that they haven’t seen for a week or two.

One more tip: interact with your puppy when they choose to play with their toys. Or better yet, initiate these play sessions yourself. We all want our puppies to learn to play independently but the fact is that puppies will find it more satisfying to play with their toys in social contexts. This is one reason that puppies are so drawn to “off-limit” items like your shoes. Chewing on your shoe gets you to come over and play chase, or keep away. What fun! Make sure that you are scheduling in 5-10 minute play sessions, 2 or 3 times each day.

03: Exercise

The Expectation

People expect long walks that will not only burn the puppy’s energy, but will also help them to fulfill their new year’s resolution to exercise more. A match made in heaven.

The Reality

The reality is that you will walk 20 feet from your house before your puppy freezes. When you put pressure on the leash to urge the puppy along, he will dig in his heels. He would rather sit still and take in the sights, sounds and smells of his new environment than go on a 20 minute walk. If and when your puppy does start to walk, it will be at a snail’s pace. You will have walked approximately 100 feet over the course of 30 minutes because he’s so busy sniffing and/or picking up every leaf and twig and cigarette butt (eww).

Stop trying to take your puppy for a walk like they’re an adult dog. Their needs are different, the expectations should be too. Plan for “watching the world” sessions. Sit with your puppy for 15-20 minutes outside your house, or carry your puppy to a park where they can just take in the sights, sounds and smells. If they want to meander here or there, let them. Avoid trying to walk them from Point A to Point B. In combination with this, you can also start to do some “leash training sessions.” Here are 3 leash training tips:

1. Short sessions. Keep your leash training sessions to 5-10 minutes! Even those short sessions will provide “training breaks” that will allow your puppy to process the sights, sounds and smells around them.
2. High value reinforcement. Bring some boiled chicken, or their favorite tug toy and show your puppy how much fun it is to engage with you on leash.
3. Be realistic. A lot of puppies will “lock up” on walks. If we kept on trying to force them to walk, you might find that this problem persists into adulthood.

04: Potty Time

The Expectation

People expect potty training to be a pretty straight forward process. Puppy has an accident? Lead him over to the accident, show him what’s he’s done, be stern. Rinse and repeat and in no time puppy will learn not to potty in the house. Leaving the back door open or installing a dog door will make the whole process effortless, since the puppy will take himself out when nature calls. 

The Reality

The reality is that your puppy learns very quickly that you are prone to become angry when you see urine or feces. So he considerately “holds it” until you’re out of sight, or looking the other way. Going outside is an option, but creeping into the back room or behind the couch also produces the same outcome. So why not?

Be mindful of your part in this teaching process. Giving your puppy free range of the house is a sure fire way to prolong the potty training process. It is also not realistic to expect that your puppy will take him or herself outside through a dog door or open door to the yard. Be present. Keep a potty schedule. Reinforce your puppy within 1-2 seconds of going potty in the appropriate area. It’s a great idea to use a harness and leash when taking your puppy out into the yard, even if you have a fenced in yard. This will help your puppy learn to go potty on leash, and is especially useful if you ever plan to travel with your dog.

05: Jumping

The Expectation

Your cute puppy runs up to you when you arrive home, and jumps up to lick your face. You melt. You coo and pet the puppy. The more excited the puppy is, the better it feels, so you rev the puppy. When friends and family visit you are warmed by his display of friendliness and proudly stand back watching how free and wild he is when expressing his love. He does the same thing with people he meets on walks, and you can’t imagine how this could ever be a problem. The expectation is that the puppy will grow out of this type of “puppy behavior” …. so you might as well soak it in while you can. 

The Reality

The reality is that puppies get better and better at every behavior they practice. This is how habits develop. By the time your puppy is a year old you will have an adult dog that goes wild when anyone walks into the house. This will be most problematic in the summer when people are more likely to be dressed in shorts. Long red welts will appear on legs, scratches from the nails of a dog that was very effectively “trained” to demonstrate his love and affection in this manner from a very early age. What do we do? First off, guests and strangers at the park are potentially part of the problem. People love to get puppies excited. They encourage puppies to jump, and provide strong reinforcement for the jumping. They don’t have to deal with the long-term consequences. This means that you have to get creative.

Anticipate greetings. Carry food with you on walks and let people know that your puppy is “in training.” Show them some of your puppy’s training. This will encourage people to give your pup some space, it will also teach your puppy to offer calm behavior whenever you walk up to a person (instead of running up and jumping). The same approach can be applied to guests walking into your home. When people do want say hello, ask them to sit on the ground so that the puppy can interact with them while keeping all four paws on the ground.

06: The “Non-Barker”

The Expectation

People bring home a 2 month old puppy, and after a few weeks they confidently declare to their family and friends that their puppy might be a little naughty but “at least she doesn’t bark!” There is a tremendous amount of relief associated with this, because they know how difficult it can be to live with a very vocal dog. They expect that the behavior that they see now is constant.

The Reality

The reality is that most dogs only find their “voice” in their adolescence or in early adulthood. There is no correlation between the time at which your dog begins barking, and the frequency or intensity with which they will bark as an adult. In fact, some of the most vocal dogs I’ve met were extremely quiet puppies. Excessive barking is usually a coping strategy. Spend time learning to recognize signs that your puppy might be overwhelmed or over-aroused by certain events or situations. Help your puppy navigate these situations by:

1. Giving them space.
2. Doing training that promotes calm, confident behavior in a variety of different situations.

07: Backyard Dogs

The Expectation

Many people decide to get a dog because they have a great backyard. A lot of times they put in a dog door so that the dog has a choice. Or they keep the inside off-limits altogether at certain times during the day. The expectation is that the puppy will be more content outside with more stimulation, and less likely to get into trouble. 

The Reality

The reality is that a puppy or adult dog that is unsupervised outside (whether it’s their choice or not) is likely to get into a whole host of problems. They frequently dig up the garden, or with passing time, become hyper-territorial around the fence-line. They are also more likely to vocalize from boredom, or scratch at the back door from frustration. The anxiety and frustration resulting from this type of isolation can manifest into other more serious behavioral issues over time. In fact, many backyard dogs will develop aggressive tendencies as adults.

Get your puppy out of the house at least 2-3 times each week. Take them to quiet parks, or on nature trails where they can take in lots of different sights, sounds and smells. Avoid the temptation to go to the extreme, which would be day cares, dog parks, farmer’s markets. While there is nothing wrong with doing this type of thing every once in a while, these environments can be over-whelming. Natural settings will do a better job of providing a healthy level and form of enrichment.

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Successful training requires three critical elements. If you are struggling to train your dog, reassess your training plan and ask which of these three elements is lacking.

1. Motivation

Motivate your dog to WANT to learn. Choose your reinforcement, wisely. Top trainers pull out all the stops. They are likely to use tennis balls or tug toys for dogs with high toy drive. For dogs that are highly food driven they use boiled chicken, liver treats or anything that is moist, meaty and carries a strong aroma. If your dog has low drive and you would like an article about how to build drive, leave a comment below.

2. Timing

Dogs have a very small window of opportunity where they are pairing cause with effect. Research studies have shown that window to be somewhere between 1 and 1.5 seconds. This means that to be a good trainer, you have to have good timing. When your puppy goes pee in the yard, you should be standing 5 feet away, reinforcement in hand. Waiting to reward the puppy until he comes trotting back into the house will not teach your dog to potty in the yard. In fact, doing this does nothing more than train your dog to walk outside, and walk back in 10 seconds later.

3. Consistency

Dogs thrive when given routine schedules and clearly defined boundaries. Sit down with your family and come up with a list of house rules for your dog or puppy. These rules are especially important for the first 6-12 months that a dog is in a new home. I’m curious to know which rule you think is most beneficial to raising a dog, leave a comment below.

FAQ’s, My Dog House Rules:

Play structured games of tug, fetch, or hide and seek

Question:

Why are these games better than the rest?

Answer:

These games reinforce your dog for coming to you, finding you, bringing and dropping valued items to you. 

Avoid rough housing

Question:

What’s wrong with rough housing?

Answer:

This is mostly a problem for dogs that are extremely excitable and have not yet learned how to inhibit their play. Rough housing reinforces dogs for mouthing and jumping.

Training

Question:

Should I train my dog to wait before walking through doorway to go for a walk or jumping out of car?

Answer:

This is a potentially life saving habit, that will teach dogs to practice impulse control in and around busy streets.

Have dog sleep on dog bed, instead of on couch or human bed

Question:

Is this necessary for every dog?

Answer:

No, but it is especially beneficial for dogs prone to separation anxiety, and for dogs that are not 100% house trained.

Ignore dogs for 10 minutes prior to departure, and for 10 minutes after you return home

Question:

Why is this important?

Answer:

This minimizes the contrast between alone time and together time and is useful for dogs prone to separation anxiety or that jump excessively during greetings.

Teach your dog to eat on a schedule. This means that dogs learn to eat breakfast and dinner at set times.

Question:

Why is this recommended?

Answer:

Because it helps to monitor your dog’s health. If your dog is on a set schedule it is immediately obvious when your dog loses his or her appetite. You lose this indicator if you are free feeding your dog or if they have developed the habit of grazing on their food throughout the day.

 

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Most bad habits start off seemingly benign. Your dog whimpers and you ask him if he wants to go for a walk. Your dog barks and you ask him “what’s wrong?” Your dog lifts his paw on you to ask for a pet … so you pet him. Some people even encourage it: they want their puppy to paw at the door when he wants to go outside. It’s hard to imagine that these behaviors could become problematic down the road.

The Problem Snowballs

Problems start to build when you are on the phone, or watching a movie, eating dinner or sleeping in. The behavior is the same, but the context has changed. Your dog whimpers, barks, paws at your leg or at the door – but you’re busy – so you ignore him. He doesn’t get what he’s accustomed to getting, so he persists. The whining becomes louder, the barking becomes more demanding, the pawing becomes more insistent. Rinse and repeat over several months and the intensity of the problem behavior can reach Himalayan proportions. As a dog trainer I see many dogs throw fits of frustration; barking for 5, 10, 15 minutes straight or leaving long red welts down the owners leg from incessant pawing. This does not make for a happy dog or a happy owner.

Common Mistakes

All you really want is to relax and watch a movie, eat your dinner in peace, get some extra sleep or finish your phone call without the sound of your dog’s bark echoing through the house. What do you do? Most people attempt one of three scenarios:

Scenario 1: The owner finds something, anything, to appease their dog’s demands.

Scenario 2: The owner yells “no!”  or “quiet!” or pushes their dog away.

Scenario 3: The owner attempts to punish the behavior by using “time outs,” shaker cans, citronella sprays, water spray bottles, and correction collars – and both the dog and owner suffer from the unintended side-effects.

The Fallout

Appeasement: Reinforces your dog’s demanding behavior.

Verbal reprimands: Amplifies your dog’s frustration and reinforces your dog’s demanding behavior (negative attention is still attention).

Scenario 3:

Punishment: Your dog develops a callous to the punishment, your relationship suffers and the problem worsens or manifests into other more serious behavioral issues.

How Do you Address This Type of Attention Demanding Behavior?

Tip # 1: Create a Schedule

Don’t wait for your dog to “tell you” that he has to go potty, or that he wants to play a game. Anticipate your dog’s day to day needs and initiate these interactions. Wake him up from a nap to go for a walk or provide pre-planned potty breaks throughout the day. You can also surprise him with a fun game of tug when he’s relaxing on his dog bed. Not only does this reinforce calm behavior, but it shows him that he never has to become pushy, because all of his mental and physical needs are routinely satiated.

Be pre-emptive. If your three month old puppy cries at 3am every morning because she has to go potty, then set an alarm for a 2am potty trip. If you have a high energy dog that gets boisterous every night at 7pm, then schedule a train and play session for 5pm. If you know that your dog routinely barks for attention every time you’re on the phone, then provide a bully stick, stuffed kong or other high value chew before the phone call or the barking ever begins. Leading your dog through a healthy routine is the secret to raising a dog that knows when to play and when to settle. You and your dog will become more in-tune with one and other and everyone wins.

Tip # 2: Train Your Dog With Positive Reinforcement

The great thing about positive reinforcement training is that it teaches dogs to be calm and patient in order to get things that they love most: food, walks, attention, playtime. It strengthens trust and communication, and is the foundation of a healthy relationship. With good training technique you can use positive reinforcement methods to train a high level of impulse control. Click here for training videos that demonstrate impulse control exercises. Training dogs to offer a calm sit and a calm down will provide a polite alternative to the “temper tantrums” that a dog might traditionally default to when he or she becomes frustrated.

How Do I Respond When My Dog Does Become Demanding?

Be patient, and remember that your dog probably has a strong reinforcement history for those demanding behaviors and they will not disappear over night. The best thing to do is to provide an LRS “least reinforcing scenario.” When your dog offers the undesired behavior, wait for 3 seconds of calm, and then provide your dog an easy opportunity for reinforcement. Ask your dog for a behavior that you know will come relatively easy to him, and then reinforce. You are reinforcing the absence of the undesired behavior. Piggyback on those few seconds of calm by providing a food toy, or high value chew to keep your dog occupied. This will not necessarily teach your dog not to demand attention, but it will manage the behavior so that he doesn’t have the opportunity to practice being pushy.

The tips provided above will help to over-ride demanding behavior. For serious cases, enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer, and create and implement a behavior modification plan.

It is easier to prevent undesired behavior, with that in mind, puppies should be enrolled in positive reinforcement training classes or private lessons at an early age and owner’s should consciously create a healthy routine that satiates their puppy’s individual mental and physical needs. 

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https://youtu.be/vTkBB3sXNjo

The Rubik’s cube can be used as a model for a dog’s behavioral wellness. People can spin their wheels in behavioral training when they try to work through concerning behavior related to fear, anxiety or aggression as though it is a one dimensional problem. People struggle with the Rubik’s cube for the same reason. Every time we attempt to modify one side of the cube, those changes will have a direct effect on the remaining sides. The puzzle is solvable only when we attempt to work from the ground up.

Layer 1: Need to Feel Safe

In behavioral training, the BASE layer represents a dog’s need to feel safe within each environment in which they are placed, Also, to develop a trusting relationship with family members or caregivers. Creating conditions that promote a sense of security and trust should be viewed as a priority when creating a behavioral training plan. 

Implement Positive reinforcement methods to address signs of anxiety, stress or fear related to family members, the dog’s environment or aspects of the dog’s routine.

Layer 2: Learned Skills

This layer represents learned skills that help satisfy a dog’s mental and emotional need to develop good communication and problem solving skills. This includes teaching dogs to relax in social situations, training an enthusiastic recall or working through reactivity. These goals build upon the base layer and are only possible if the dog feels safe and trusts their handler and environment.

Layer 3: Need for Enrichment

The third layer represents your dog’s need for enrichment. Going on hikes, on trips to the beach or practicing scent or agility games to name a few. These activities will revolve around your dog’s individual strengths and abilities.

One Dimensional Problem Solving

Putting a correction collar on a dog to address reactivity to other dogs, or blasting a dog with a spray bottle to make them stop barking are examples of one dimensional problem solving. From a singular perspective this could be looked at as a “fix” until you realize that it may have a negative impact on other dimensions of your dog’s behavior. 

Positive or Negative Influence

Every modification will have a positive or negative wave of influence on other aspects of your dog’s behavior. Their confidence, social behavior and their ability to trust are a few examples. Behavioral training will have a positive or negative impact on their total wellness.

Choose training solutions that focus on creating a sense of safety and security by minimizing stress and promoting skills that help your dog improve communication and better regulate emotions.

Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

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Tip #1: Potty Training

Potty training requires careful management and frequent supervised trips outside. There, you are able to immediately reinforce your puppy for peeing or pooing in a desired area. Click here to see article about house training.

Tip #2: Separation Training

Teach the puppy to feel comfortable spending time in a crate or behind a baby gate. When done correctly, this will become a “safe place” that will help your puppy cope with separation from family members. This will also the reduce likelihood that your pup will develop separation anxiety as an adult. Teaching puppies to feel content inside of an exercise pen or crate will also facilitate potty training and minimize destructive tendencies.

Tip #3: Training Games

Structured games of tug or retrieve are a positive outlet for your puppy’s energy. When you play it right, these games will teach impulse control, play inhibition and build a stronger more meaningful relationship with your puppy. Early on, we recommend that you avoid games that encourage jumping, mouthing, pawing, barking or running away from people. Wait until your puppy is an adult to teach tricks like,  “speak,” “dance,” “shake,”  or “high five” or you may inadvertently teach your dog to paw, jump and/or bark when he wants something.

Tip #4: Build Value for Calm Behavior 

Sit down with your puppy for five minutes each day with a treat pouch and some nutritious and delicious food. Reinforce your puppy while they sit or lie down in front of you. Train silently if you want to teach your puppy to offer these behaviors as a default, without always having to hear a verbal cue like “sit” or “down.” Verbal cues can be learned later. Puppies receive a lot of attention when they are jumping, barking, whining or chewing on things they’re not supposed to chew on. It’s a really smart idea to create a strong reinforcement history for the behavior that you find most desirable.

Tip #5: Socialization

Learn how to appropriately expose your puppy to “new stuff” given their individual temperament. If they are shy or timid, be patient and go slow. Never force interaction that clearly scares your puppy. Here are a few things that you will want to expose your puppy to during their critical socialization period (8 weeks – 16 weeks): 

• people 

• kids

• well behaved dogs

• noises

• environments

• surfaces

Tip #6: Handling

Learn how to read and respond to your dog’s body language and behavior in order to raise a puppy that is very comfortable with being pet, restrained, and examined. 

Tip #7: Chew Toys

Teach your puppy to chew on appropriate items by building value for nyla bones or other hard rubber items. You can limit exposure to “off-limit” items (ie table legs and sneakers). Don’t confuse the puppy by allowing them to chew on old shoes since they can’t distinguish between an old shoe and your brand new pair.

Tip #8: House Rules

We recommend that people avoid having puppies and young adult dogs on couches and beds. Most puppies will still have the occasional accident, and it’s better to have those accidents happen on the floor than on furniture. Most puppies will also have a natural tendency to use couches and beds as jungle gyms, and while it may seem cute early on, most people find the behavior less endearing once their dog grows up. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

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Barrier aggression can escalate quickly and result in euthanasia if this issue is not taken seriously. Barriers, such as; fences, gates, windows, screen doors, balconies have the potential to generate high levels of frustration and stress, resulting in incessant barking, or worse, aggression.

Barriers “train” dogs to become hyper-territorial because it has a built in reinforcement mechanism: people come, people go. People approach the barrier – resident dog barks – people retreat from barrier. The dog, unaware that this was their intention all along, pats himself on the back for a job well done. The same pent up aggression can occur with dogs, cats, squirrels and birds. 

Why is this a problem? I want my dog to be territorial.

One benefit to having a dog is knowing that the dog may help deter intruders. The problem is the rate at which territorial behavior can snowball when dogs are left to their own devices. True protection dogs are trained to have an “on” AND an “off” switch. Dogs that are left outside unattended, for example, never learn how to “turn it off.”

Bites occur when gates pop open unexpectedly, or when you invite a friend to bypass the front door and walk into the yard. Postal workers rack up the most serious dog bites, because dogs have a well established reinforcement history of “barking them off the premises.” The day that the postal worker needs to deliver a package to the front door, is the same day that the dog will deliver a bite. The problem becomes even more serious when a nervous dog learns to transfer this aggressive behavior to other social situations.

What to Do If Your Dog is Barking by the Fence:

#1 Supervise Your Dog Outside. 

Opening the door and allowing dogs to go outside unattended can set the stage for problematic behavior, especially in young dogs or those with a history of excessive barking. Accompany your dog outside for potty breaks. Think of your backyard as your very own privately owned park. Make outside time more interactive by practicing the training recommended below. The best way to manage excessive barking is to keep your dog on a six foot leash or 10-15 foot long line whenever they are in the yard, and be present.

#2 Work on these Three Training Skills 

For me, there are three skills that any dog will benefit from to prevent or minimize barking in the yard. Dogs are very context specific, so if you want your dog to be more responsive in your yard make sure you are practicing in your yard.

Check-ins

The first skill is to teach your dog to check-in with distractions. A check-in exercise is when you reinforce your dog for acknowledging a distraction and then looking back in your direction. This helps dogs learn to be calmer and less impulsive with common distractions and will decrease the frequency with which your dog alert barks with neighborhood activity.

“Come” When Called

Teaching your dog to come when called is also referred to as a “Recall.” In order to recall your dog in more challenging situations you need to start the training with mild distractions. Systematically work your way up the ladder of difficulty 

Build enthusiastic responses by using high value reinforcement. Recall training could be a life saver – especially if someone forgets to close the gate properly or if there is a dangerous animal lurking around your property. This means that when it comes to building strong, reliable responses to your recall cue you will want to use “super treats,” save small bits of tasty foods (like steak or chicken) and use this to reinforce your dog whenever you call them in from the backyard.

Once your dog is responding reliably to your recall cue in more controlled set ups, you can use it to call your dog away from environmental distractions. You can even use if they alert to sounds or activity that may otherwise trigger barking.

Mat Work

The third skill is to work on relaxation exercises on a training mat. I also refer to this as “mat work.” This is not an obedience exercise where you are “commanding” your dog to stay on their mat with the use of verbal cues. Instead, this is a “conditioning” exercise that will help your dog shift into a calmer, more relaxed state with practice and repetition. 

Reinforce your dog for calm behavior on their training mat when you walk to the door, touch the door knob, open the door or if they appear to be acknowledging any sights, sounds or smells from the outside. You can do the same thing out in the yard when you notice that they see or hear things in the environment that might ultimately result in barking.

Be proactive and train when your dog is relatively calm, this will set the stage for success in more challenging situations.

You want these skill sets to become automatic. In order to make this happen, try doing short 5 minute sessions once or twice each day. Short sessions usually create the strongest results in training because your dog will start to look at these sessions as a fun and rewarding way to connect with you. The intensity, frequ

Behavioral Training Classes

The remaining tips will look at how to supercharge your training to make sure that you are getting the most out of the time you are putting into your training. If you’re interested in training with me, take a look at my online classes. Follow along with a well structured training plan that breaks these skills sets down into easy to follow steps. If you sign up for my live online sessions you will also learn about how to integrate these exercises into your dog’s specific triggers.  These classes are specifically designed to address anxious, fearful, hyperactive or aggressive behavior.

Check out my behavioral training classes to learn more.

#3 Good Fences Make Good Dog Neighbors

Chain link fences + unsupervised time outside + a dog that is predisposed to territorial behavior is a perfect cocktail for barrier aggression. 

Whenever possible, choose solid fences that will better insulate your dog from environmental sounds and activities. This will also do a better job of keeping your dog safe from other dogs, wildlife or kids that might provoke or taunt your dog.

If a solid wooden or vinyl fence is not an option, the next best thing is to create visual barriers. Hedges are a good long term plan, while tarps will work best in the short term. 

Another alternative is to create an inner fence line that would create more of a buffer from sounds and nearby activity. Use spring loaded hinges or some other automatic closing mechanism whenever possible to make sure that gates are never left open unintentionally. As mentioned earlier, bites are most common when gates or doors pop open unexpectedly.

#4 Choose Your Reinforcement Wisely

If your dog is excited for meal time it’s a great idea to use your dog’s meals. Your dog will be happier and healthier if you throw away the dog food bowl, or at the very least take them out of the mix for 2-4 weeks. 

Do training at meal time instead. This will also help you be consistent with the training. Good training is about being consistent. It’s not what you do for a day or a week, but what your routine looks like each day. 

All dogs can benefit from being on a good feeding schedule, but for even stronger results – use a high value training food. My go to is typically happy howie rolls or diced up chicken. Aim for a food that is moist, meaty and nutritious. If you want to learn how to get your dog more excited about meals, take a look at my video “How to Create a Healthy Feeding Routine.” 

A “Random Bit of Advice”

I used to live in New York, and one time when my dogs and I were enjoying off leash hours at Prospect Park an old man randomly gave me a bit of advice. He said, “if you want a perfect recall – use liverwurst.” And then he just walked off. I’ll never forget it. But it does beg the question – what’s your dog’s holy grail when it comes to training food? Find that super treat that makes your dog act like they are on cloud 9. Use that for your recall.

Tip #5: Make Training Fun

Incorporate fun break activities into every training session. I like to do 15-30 second training sets that build value for check-ins, recalls and mat work. Then give your dog a break. Here are three fun break activities that you can incorporate into each session in order to supercharge your training.

Option 1

For dogs that have high toy drive – play a 1 minute game of fetch or tug.

Option 2

Other dogs might want to spend their break sniffing the yard or searching for wildlife.

Option 3

Play a quick game of hide and seek by tossing a handful of food into a towel and then running off behind a tree or bush. Call your dog and reinforce them once they find you. 

Good training builds value for being calm and attentive in the presence of distractions, but it should also give your dog time to just .. be a dog. 

Avoid playing long, mindless or repetitive games of fetch. Long games of fetch can create an adrenaline junky, leading to a dog that is even more fired up and frantic after the play session ends. Think of the labrador that doesn’t stop barking until you throw the next ball.

This could also make some dogs even more fired up with environmental sounds and activities.

The healthiest play sessions involve a lot of “start and stop” patterns. Think of red light, green light or freeze tag. The rules of the game involve running excitedly – freezing – and then running again. This helps kids think through excitement and improves their impulse control. The same thing is true with our dogs. This is why I like sandwiching high arousal activity, in-between calming exercises when I am working to teach arousal control.

Tip #6: Motivate Yourself to do the Training.

Make sure that the training is fun for your dog, but also for you! Being creative about how you implement the training might also help you be more consistent. For example, set up agility obstacles in your yard or create search games. Practice check-ins and recalls in combination with these activities. The more you enjoy the training, the more likely you are to stick with the training and the more likely you are to see results.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my dog starts barking, pulls to the fence and doesn’t take food?

Go back inside for 10-15 minutes. Work on calming exercises back inside the house will have two benefits. First, moving to a more relaxing environment will help your dog learn to de-escalate faster. Second, with repetition your dog will become more excited and responsive when you ask him or her to come back into the house. 

You will be especially thankful for this training on wet or cold nights where your dog happily comes running back to the house when you call them, and you no longer have to go searching for them in your pajamas.

Can I use a bark collar to address the barking?

Avoid the use of aversive tools or techniques to suppress fence barking. These approaches may appear to work in the short-term, but long-term your dog’s protective nature can become more intense and less predictable. If you do use aversive tools to address barking at the fence, you are likely to see an increase in aggressive behavior for two reasons. 

Reason 1

First, pairing the sight and sound of people, kids or other dogs with aversive outcomes is likely to heighten stress levels associated with their presence.

Reason 2

Second, without clear warning signs, like barking, a person may approach or interact with your dog through the fence line. This further increases the probability of a bite when an adult or child unknowingly attempts to pet your dog through the fence. 

This is also true with electronic fences. But they can create an even bigger problem in that these invisible barriers frequently fail when a dog’s level of arousal and adrenaline is so high that they plow through the barrier. For example, a dog might respect the barrier until they see a squirrel or another dog. A high level of adrenaline can numb the dog to the sensation of the shock.

The same is not true when the dog attempts to cross the barrier in the opposite direction. In this case, the electronic fence would actually discourage the dog from coming home.

Tell Me About Your Dog

What are your dogs biggest triggers? How do you see yourself using the information in this video to help address or prevent your dog from barking through barriers?

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Bringing home a new baby can be stressful for the family, but can also be confusing for your dog. Let me share with you some tips that can help with Introducing your dog to the baby and allow your dog make sense of whats going. These tips will help ensure that your dog will share in the happiness of your growing family.

Tip #1: Brush up on basic obedience

Practice relaxation exercises on a blanket in preparation for nap time or nursing. Teach your dog how to walk on a loose leash so that you, your baby, and your dog can enjoy long strolls through the neighborhood.

Tip #2: Play audio clips from YouTube of a baby crying

Babies are going to cry and this can be super stressful for your dog. So that your pup gets familiar with the sound that will inevitably be going on for some time to come, go on Youtube and play audio clips of a baby crying. Keep the volume low to start, and gradually increase it so long as your dog is exhibiting calm, relaxed body language. During this time you can also provide your pup with high value treats to create a positive association with noises that might otherwise generate anxiety.

Tip #3: Manage their greetings

Most dogs are scolded for an over exuberant greeting when mom first comes home from the hospital, this can make for a stressful introduction to family life. Rather than being reactive to this type of greeting, plan for it by introducing your dog to the baby through proper management.

Here’s what you should do when coming home from the hospital. Dad (or partner) should wait outside with the baby and Mom should come inside alone to greet the dog, put him on leash, and reward calm behavior with high value treats. If the dog is calm when Dad comes in with the baby, you can allow the dog to sniff at the baby’s toes. If the dog seems nervous, or overly-excited, lead the dog to a training mat and provide reinforcement when he targets the mat. When in doubt, err on the side of caution, and save the introduction for a later time when the dog is more relaxed.

Tip #4: Read body language

Brush up on canine body language and stress signals, and use this knowledge to read your dog when he is around infants, toddlers, strangers and unfamiliar objects. If you notice early warning signs of fear or anxiety, you can set-up an online behavior consultation for tips on how to improve your dog’s social skills and to help them feel more comfortable.

Tip #5: Create a dog safe place

Creating a safe place for your dog is extremely important. Initially, this will be a place that your dog can retreat to when the baby is crying, or when you have a lot of visitors. As time goes on this will be a good place for your dog to sneak away to get some rest when your baby becomes mobile, and develops a deep, and unrelenting fascination for her four-legged-furry-sibling.

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https://youtu.be/-NnTIazTk-A

Make sure that you are setting your dog up for success in their new home by following these Ten Training Tips. Too many dogs are relinquished to the shelter each year for problem behaviors that could have been prevented, here’s how to get your dog off on the right track:

Tip #1: Confinement Area.

A safe, cozy area in your home where your dog can stay whenever he is unsupervised. An appropriate confinement area will facilitate house training, prevent destructive behavior and can be an important tool when working dogs through issues related to fearful, anxious or aggressive behavior.

Tip #2: Potty Training.

When bringing a new dog into a new home, do not assume that house training will carry over. For the first 3 days you should take your dog out every 1/2 an hour. Accompany your dog on leash, and reinforce with a high value treat when they do go potty. Not only will this teach your dog to potty outside, but it will also ensure that your dog learns to go potty as soon as they go out – without getting distracted by sights, sounds and smells. After 3 days you can modify your dog’s schedule based on your individual dog’s potty habits.

Tip #3: Feeding Schedule.

The average adult dog should be fed two times per day. Pick up any food that is not finished after 5 minutes. Feeding schedules facilitate a good training program by building value for food. It also allows you to monitor your dog’s health. Keeping your dog on scheduled meals will allow you to recognize loss of appetite; a red flag that your dog is not feeling well and should be seen by a vet.

Tip #4: Learn About Dog Body Language.

The most dog savvy people are experts at reading canine body language. Listen to what your dog is trying to tell you by learning about stress signals and appeasement gestures. Recognizing early warning signs of fear, anxiety or hyper-excitement can save you time and frustration by treating early warning signs before they manifest into serious problem behavior. Proactive training leads to happier, healthier dogs.

Tip #5: Introducing Dogs.

Neutrality is important during early stages of relationship development. When introducing two dogs allow for parallel interaction on a long walk in neutral territory. Dogs should only be allowed to greet when they are in a calm state. This might take 5 minutes, 20 minutes or multiple greetings. Be patient. When bringing them back into the house be sure that there are no bones, toys or food laying out which could trigger a fight. 

Tip #6: Introducing People.

Use your powers of observation when introducing a dog to new people. Recognize signs of stress and lead the dog away if necessary. People should never force unwanted petting. A dog that licks their lips, issues a low tail wag, nervously licks a person or slowly and submissively exposes their belly is exhibiting stress signals and is asking for space. Over time aggressive behavior can develop when stress signals are repeatedly dismissed.

Tip #7: Introducing Kids.

Careful supervision is a must. Kids should be taught how to interact with dogs appropriately and should not be encouraged to hug, kiss or lie on top of a dog. Adults should look for signs of stress and lead the dog away if necessary. Dogs  and kids should be separated by a baby gate or crate if close supervision is not possible. 

Tip #8: Basic Training.

Training promotes good emotional health by establishing attention, impulse control, trust and communication skills. Look for positive reinforcement trainers that make learning an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog. Don’t wait for problem behavior to start training, be proactive.

Tip #9: Training Toolbox.

Set yourself up for success by having the necessary training tools; a training pouch, high value training food, a clicker, training toys, a long line and a training mat. 

Tip #10: Natural Instincts.

Provide opportunities for your dog to practice his natural instincts. This is a great way to burn energy and reduce stress that may otherwise contribute to behavioral issues. Activities that fulfill your dog’s natural instincts can build confidence, be a great relationship builder and unleash your dog’s full potential. 

*BONUS Tip*

When adopting a new dog use a long line when bringing your dog to open parks. Do not let dogs off leash for the first 6-12 months that you have a dog as it takes time to properly bond and learn everything there is to know about a dog’s individual temperament. Dogs should only be allowed off leash in open spaces once you have trained a reliable recall, and proofed this training in the presence of high level distractions.

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So, what does it mean to be proactive in dog training and why is it better than waiting until an issue occurs to search for a “fix”? The difference between a trainer and the average pet owner is that the trainer is proactive, and the average pet owner is reactive. A reactive response is usually born of frustration and can make the behavior worse by increasing the dog’s stress levels.

Behavior modification is about identifying and/or creating “trainable moments”. It’s about using this moment to reprogram or counter-condition the dog’s underlying emotional response to one that is conducive to calm, attentive, relaxed behavior.

A Single Moment

The potential to change an emotional response and thereby change the consequent behavior rests on A SINGLE MOMENT.

• Emotional Response = Excitement, Fear, Anxiety

• Consequent Behavior = Barking, Biting, Jumping

Let’s imagine a person walking a dog. The dog being walked is a “dog-reactive-dog” as he barks at any dog that comes within 25 feet. He notices another dog 50 feet in the distance while on their walk. The dog’s ears perk up and his body becomes tense. The distance narrows to 45 feet and the dog pulls into the leash. At 35 feet, the dog begins to whine with nervous excitement. Closer to 25 feet, the dog jumps to the end of the leash and starts barking uncontrollably. The person REACTS by scolding his dog for barking, “bad dog”. The dog cowers, presses his ears back and the person incorrectly assumes, “that’ll teach him not to bark at the next dog”. 

Predicting Behavior

Behavior modification relies on the ability to PREDICT future behavior, intervene and redirect BEFORE the dog is able to engage in an undesirable behavior. Once a dog has the opportunity to bark, jump, lunge, bite etc. – it’s more about management than training. As the person and dog close the distance between 50 to 25 feet, there is a build up of emotion (excitement, fear, anxiety) that results in an undesirable behavior (pulling, whining and barking). 

Let’s rewind: a person is walking a dog. The dog notices another dog 50 feet in the distance, the dog’s ears perk. PAUSE. THAT’S THE MOMENT. That’s the trainable moment. At this point we have the opportunity to intervene and redirect the dog’s focus to produce an alternate emotional response. With repetition and consistent intervention, we can condition and train the dog to react calmly and attentively when in the presence of another dog by prompting the dog to develop new cognitive and behavioral patterns.

Food Reinforcement vs. Correction Collars

Food Reinforcement

Food reinforcement is often times the most effective way to modify aggressive, excited, fearful or anxious behavior in dogs. This is because it is a vital component to every organism’s existence. Watch my video on Food at Work in Shaping Behavior. It has the unequivocal power to change brain chemistry, create new neural pathways and manipulate physiological responses (ie. heart and respiratory rate). 

Punishment

• Punishment = yelling, prong collars, choke / slip collars, e-collars

• Symptoms = stops barking, whining, jumping, reactivity

Punishment can suppress symptoms, but it masks the underlying problem which are stress and anxiety. This can have negative consequences on the mental and emotional health of your dog and can actually be dangerous when attempting to “correct” aggressive behavior. People will frequently punish dogs for barking, growling, snarling, air snapping which can effectively teach dogs to suppress warning signs – it WILL NOT resolve the underlying stress and anxiety that feeds aggressive behavior. Dogs that are punished for displaying warning signs of aggression can become “silent attackers” – those that bite without warning.

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Setting Expectations

Puppy potty training can be a frustrating process, but there are a few hard and fast rules that can accelerate the process:

1. Have the right tools.
2. Create a potty schedule.
3. Keep a potty training log.
4. Learn how to use food reinforcement effectively.
5. Be patient.

Expect that your puppy will need constant reminders to go potty outside until they are around 10-14 months of age. While some puppies will be more effective at communicating their needs, you should not expect or rely on this until your puppy is more mature. This first part of this article will dive into each of these points in more depth. The second part of this article will talk about common mistakes.

Puppy Potty Training Tools

To properly potty train your puppy you will need the right tools and the right set up. Here’s a list of puppy training supplies that I think are a must have: 

1. Gated Kitchen or Exercise Pen (for unsupervised time during the day)
2. Crate in your Bedroom (to sleep in at night)
3. Training mat – Threshold kitchen mat, from Target, recommended
4. High value food – Happy Howie’s rolls recommended 
5. Training pouch – one that straps around your waist
6. Nature’s Miracle – an enzymatic cleaner that will effectively eliminate the smell of urine if your puppy ever has an accident on a carpet or rug. 
7. Spill Proof Water Bowl

Step 1: Creating Management Strategies

Accidents happen. It’s important that we are setting the stage for success by creating areas in which those accidents are less likely to occur, or easier to clean up when they do happen. Here are three management tools that will accelerate your puppy’s potty training process.

A Crate

Place a crate next to your bed at night for your puppy to sleep in. Keeping your puppy close will help them feel more relaxed, and will help you know when and if they need to go potty in the middle of the night. Follow the training recommendations in this crate training video for puppies to make sure that your puppy develops a calm, positive association with their crate. The crate should be large enough for a puppy or dog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It’s okay to provide a larger crate once you feel confident that your puppy shows a clear desire to keep that space clean.

What If My Puppy Isn’t Ready for a Closed Door Crate?

Until your puppy is comfortable walking into the crate and relaxing inside you should avoid closing the gate. In this case, you can have your puppy on a harness and leash. As a short term management option at night you can attach the leash to a heavy piece of furniture that cannot be moved or tipped over. Give your puppy access to a cozy open door crate or to a fluffy bed. Back tying the leash will prevent your puppy from roaming the room, chewing on off-limit items, and having accidents while you are sleeping.

Baby Gates

During the day, when your puppy is home alone, keep your puppy in a safe space that gives your puppy room to move. Avoid confining dogs behind solid doors or in remote areas that are not socially significant, like a laundry room. This usually leads to more distress, frustration and anxiety since the puppy will feel isolated. This means puppies are more likely to bark, scratch at the door, howl or whine when you bring them to this area. It’s better to use a space that is centrally located in your home, I recommend a gated kitchen. This is usually one of the easiest rooms to puppy proof, and since it’s in the main hub of your home, most puppies will feel fairly comfortable staying in this space with the help of a little training. A lot of puppies learn how to jump over or push down gates. This is especially true of shorter gates, with horizontal bars. To prevent this issue from occurring I recommend using an extra tall baby gate, with vertical bars and a door that swings open and closed on a hinge. (see picture)

Exercise Pens (an alternative to baby gates)

Wide self standing gates can be used to section off wide thresholds, but if your house has an open floor plan, this might not be feasible. If this is the case, you can purchase a sturdy, extra tall exercise pen that will accomplish the same thing. Again, place the pen in a central area of your home. You will be doing training with the pen, just like you would with a crate, to help your puppy view the pen as a desirable place to be. Nizagara http://valleyofthesunpharmacy.com/nizagara/

Open Door Crate or Cozy Dog Bed

You might choose to place an open door crate or a cozy dog bed inside the gated kitchen or exercise pen. This will provide a comfortable place for your puppy to rest. Keep the bedding proportionate to the size of your puppy. Avoid the temptation to line the exercise pen with lots of blankets. Your puppy might have accidents inside this area, and when that happens, its preferable for those accidents to occur on a solid surface where they will be easier to spot. The other reason this is important is because once a puppy learns to begin peeing on fabric, this can be a very difficult habit to reverse. Watch this video I created that will show you how to introduce your puppy to a crate.

Water Bowls

Water bowls are easy for puppies to tip over. This is a common problem with exercise pens and crates. This can make your puppy’s bedding wet, and it can make it difficult to determine if your puppy has had an accident. Spilled water can also be problematic because it can lead to a puppy that becomes comfortable with the sensation of lying down on wet or soiled bedding. To avoid this problem you can use a spill proof water bowl. I do not recommend withholding water at any point to facilitate potty training as I find it can lead to dogs that are not able to regulate their water intake.

Wee Wee Pads

Puppies that are taught to go on wee wee pads might struggle with potty training more than those puppies that are taught to go outside. The more black and white the process is, the easier it is to learn. That being said, in some cases it is necessary to use wee wee pads. People that live in apartment buildings, in cold weather climates, or that plan to travel with their dog by boat might want to teach their puppy to go on a wee wee pad. If this is the case, it’s a good idea to simplify the training by keeping the wee wee pads in an enclosed area – like a bathroom. When your puppy is in the early learning stages you should provide access to these areas at regular intervals of time (ie. every 30 minutes) and reinforce just as you would when your puppy goes outside. This will help your puppy learn how to “hold it.” You should still use baby gates and exercise pens, don’t allow your puppy to be free range in your home until they are 9-12 months old or have consistently demonstrated a solid understanding of where to go potty for a solid 3 months.

Puppies that have free range of your home may not consistently learn to use a wee wee pad. In fact they are likely to have more accidents on carpets, rugs, bath mats and kitchen mats because of the similarity in appearance and texture to wee wee pads. If possible, avoid putting wee wee pads in exercise pens as most puppies get into the habit of tearing up the pads, and making a mess of the pen. This could result in a puppy that becomes accustomed to living in unsanitary conditions.

Step 2: Create a Potty Schedule

Every puppy is different, but generally speaking, taking puppies outside every 30 minutes is a good starting point. Excitable puppies may need to go more frequently, other puppies may be fine if they are taken out every hour. Set a timer on your phone as a reminder. Increase time in 30 minute intervals of time if your puppy goes one week without accidents. Decrease the interval of time if your puppy ever begins to backslide.

Potty training is not always a linear process. You might find your puppy doing great one week, and then having more accidents the next. Their ability to “hold it” will depend on the context, environment or emotional state. For example, puppies are likely to go more frequently in high stimulation situations (like when you have guests over), if they are in a novel environment or if they have been engaged in a play session.

Nighttime Potty Schedule

Young puppies might need at least one potty trip in the middle of the night. If your puppy routinely wakes you up at 2am, I recommend setting an alarm for for 1:30am and taking them out in advance so that your puppy doesn’t become accustomed to the idea that they need to bark, whine or scratch at the crate door to get you out of bed. The same thing applies for their morning wake up. If they routinely wake up at 7am, I recommend setting the alarm for 6:30. 

By the time your puppy is 3-4 months of age you should find that you can begin to fade out the night time potty trip with ease. By the time your puppy is 10-14 months of age you might also find that you can start sleeping in again on weekends, because your dog never learned to bark and whine to get you out of bed. 

Most adult dogs can learn to “hold it” for 6-8 hours during the day, and for as long as 8-10 hours at night.

Step 3: Keep a Potty Training Log

Write down when and where your puppy goes potty. Keep track of the time, location and if they went pee or poo. This will help you identify some important patterns, make necessary changes, and accelerate the potty training process. For example, you might learn that your puppy routinely goes pee right after a family member arrives home, or that they frequently have accidents on the living room rug. Once you identify these tendencies you can then set your puppy up so that they are brought outside right after your kids come home from school, or block off access to the living room rug with a gate.

“Writing down our dog’s potty habits helps us be more objective about the process, and makes it easier for us to come up with and implement solutions.”

Step 4: How to Use Food Reinforcement Effectively

High value food reinforcement

Use high value food reinforcement, that is moist, meaty and breaks into small pieces, to reinforce your puppy any time they go potty outside. I recommend using Happy Howie’s rolls.

Training pouch

Keep the food inside a training pouch that straps around your waist. Avoid plastic bags that are noisy and will distract your puppy from doing their business.

Six foot leashes

Walk outside with your dog on a six foot leash, even if you have a fenced in yard. Puppies that get used to going potty outside off leash can sometimes find it difficult to learn to go potty on leash at a later stage. If you ever plan on taking a road trip with your puppy, this becomes a major problem!

Designated potty areas

Keeping your puppy on a leash also makes it easier to teach your puppy to go potty in a designated area. This is helpful if you don’t want your puppy learning to go potty all over the patio or lawn. Be consistent about walking your puppy to the designated potty area and reinforcing them for going in this spot.

Timers

Set a timer for 3 minutes and say nothing.

Timing of Reinforcement

Wait until your puppy finishes going pee or poo and calmly say “good” and reinforce with 3 pieces of food approximately 1 second after they have finished. The timing is critical. 

Time to Poop

If you have been keeping a potty log you should have a good idea of when your puppy will need to go poo. If you expect that they still have to go you can set your timer for another 3 minutes. Calmly say “good” and reinforce with 3 pieces of food once they have finished going poo. Be careful not to jump the gun and interrupt your puppy before they are fully finished. 

Unsuccessful Potty Trips

If your puppy doesn’t go potty, when you know they probably have to go, you should take your dog back inside once the timer goes off. Set the timer for 15 minutes and put your puppy inside a crate, gated area, or exercise pen. You might also choose to keep the puppy tethered to you by sliding the belt of your training pouch through the handle of the leash. After 15 minutes, try again.

Getting Puppies to Poop

Did you know that puppies are more likely to have to go poop after running? Test it out. Throw a ball or play a game of tug for a minute or two, it might be enough to get things “moving.”

Step 5: Patience

Many people struggle with this process because they want to give their dog free range of the house, before their dog is ready to accept that level of responsibility. Unfortunately, the less regimented you are in the short term, the longer the training process will take. Set clear expectations, and a well structured routine, and soon enough you will be able to give your dog the type of freedom that you will both enjoy. 

As stated earlier in this article, most puppies are 10 – 14 months of age before they are reliably “holding it.” And it might take a few months beyond that for a puppy to consistently “let you know” that they have to go. In the meantime, be consistent in your routine, but know that accidents happen.

What Should I Do When My Puppy Has an Accident?

If you see your puppy beginning to pee or poo inside the house, you can attempt to interrupt them. Gently carry them outside so that they have a chance to finish. If they finish going potty outside, and you happen to have food on you, reinforce them with 3 pieces of food.

Write down the time and location of the accident in your potty log and then ask yourself if there was any way you could have predicted or prevented that accident from occurring in the first place. It’s common for puppies to go potty right after they wake up, right after playtime, or in high stimulation scenarios. Adjust your schedule accordingly when these situations come up.

Potty Training Takes Longer with Some Puppies

Some puppies struggle with potty training more than your average puppy. This is common with highly excitable puppies, shy and fearful puppies, puppies with medical issues, puppies that have been trained to use wee wee pads or those puppies that were raised in unsanitary conditions.

Tips for troubleshooting that can be done in combination with the recommendations made above.

1. Bring your puppy to a vet to rule out a urinary track infection or other medical issues. 
2. Provide more frequent potty trips outside. 
3. Use a longer leash to give shy puppies a little more privacy. 
4. Gate off carpeted rooms and close bedroom doors, where your puppy is more likely to have an accident. 
5. Roll up rugs. 
6. Keep cleaner nearby to disinfect and deodorize carpet and fabrics. 
7. Keep puppies off furniture until they are 10-14 months of age and have consistently demonstrated the desire and ability to “hold it” for a minimum of 2 months.
8. Change the environment and provide a new look and feel to the flooring.  This is especially necessary for puppies that have been raised in unsanitary conditions. If a puppy is kept in small, confined spaces for prolonged periods of time they will sometimes become habituated to the idea of sitting in their own urine or feces. These dogs can be especially difficult to potty train. One effective way to modify this habit is to change the environment and surface on which the dog lives. Go to Home Depot and create a new floor for an exercise pen.

8 Common Mistakes

#1: Repeating “go potty”

There is little value to repeating “go potty” again and again (and again) when your puppy is in the act of sniffing for squirrels or eating leaves and sticks. Dogs learn by association, so unless your puppy immediately goes potty, they are probably not learning what you want them to learn. It is better to say nothing at all so that you do not distract, confuse or desensitize your puppy to your words. 

Once your puppy is walking outside and immediately squatting to pee – so consistently that you are willing to bet 50 bucks on it – then you can start to say “go potty” a half second before they predictably squat. If you’re not confident making that bet, don’t say the cue.

#2: Long Potty Walks

Some people take their puppy out for long periods of time in the hopes of getting them to go potty. Time may not always allow for a longer walk. In the first 6 months you should be teaching your puppy to get into the habit of pottying close to home as soon as they go outside. This is one of the reasons it’s smart to use a timer, as outlined above.

#3: Verbal and Physical Reprimands

Verbally or physically reprimanding a puppy or adult dog for accidents can prolong the training process. It can teach a puppy that you do not like it when they go pee or poo in your presence. These are the dogs that begin peeing or pooing in the guest bedroom, that refuse to go potty when they are on leash with you, and that will go potty in the house even after you just came back from a 30 minute walk. This is a major problem, and can be very difficult to reverse.

#4: Expecting and Allowing Puppies to Go Outside Alone

Many people leave the back door open with the expectation that their puppy will walk outside and potty when the need arises. You have to be present with your puppy to actively teach them what it is that you want them to do. Puppies that walk outside alone may sniff, chew on sticks, bark at squirrels and then come back inside and go potty in your rug. If a person is not present, it’s impossible to know if and when your puppy went potty last which makes it more difficult to create and implement an effective potty training schedule. This will sabotage your potty training efforts on many levels.

#5: Using Dog Doors

Dog doors should not be used during house training process for the reasons mentioned above. It’s important to be present to teach your puppy what is expected of them. Supervised trips outside will also allow you to interrupt other less desirable behavior like eating plants, digging in the garden or barking at neighbor dogs or wildlife.

#6: Poor Timing with Reinforcement

The ideal timing is to reinforce your puppy 1 second after they have finished going pee or poo. If you are overly excited to reinforce your puppy and interrupt them while they are in the process of “going” that could lead to a puppy that finishes going potty once they go back inside the house. If there is too much of a delay your puppy is probably being reinforced for some other behavior. For example, some people will stand at their back door and reinforce the puppy once they’ve walked back into the house! This is a problem as the puppy is learning that walking back inside the house is the desirable behavior. In some cases, puppies or adult dogs learn to walk outside and then to walk back inside in the hopes of receiving food.

#7: Using a Bell to Potty Train

Teaching a dog to ring a bell is a nice trick, but it is not a solution to potty training. In fact, I find that it usually creates more problems than it solves as people are no longer prompting potty trips (most puppies need reminders).Your dog will learn to “hold it” and let you know when they “have to go” but this usually doesn’t happen consistently until dogs are 10-14 months of age, and will only happen if you are consistent in your training efforts. There are no shortcuts.

You might use a bell for a dog that is 10 months or older, that has consistently demonstrated the desire and ability to “hold it” until they are able to go outside. However, the bell is usually looked at in a less favorable manner once your dog starts ringing it every 5 minutes regardless of whether or not they have to go potty. It can be a great attention getter!

#8: Potty Training Pads Inside Crates

This will encourage your puppy to go pee and poo inside their crate, which can create a dog that becomes habituated to sitting in or near urine or feces. Most puppies avoid peeing and pooing inside of their crate because they have a natural inclination to keep their immediate living space clean, this could potentially eradicate that natural, desirable tendency and as a result can create major complications in potty training

Do you have a puppy that has struggled with potty training? If you found this blog helpful, or if you have any questions, let us know in the comments below.