Author: Brian Rose

  • How to Teach Kids about Dog Body Language and Training

    How to Teach Kids about Dog Body Language and Training

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    We love the idea of kids growing up with or around dogs. But what seems like a match made in heaven can become a source of stress and anxiety. I receive a lot of questions in my classes about the best way to make interactions between kids and dogs as positive as possible. Challenges occur when dogs are nervous or hyperactive with kids, and when kids haven’t learned how to interact in a calm and respectful manner with dogs.

    Why is it important for kids to interact with dogs in a calm and respectful manner?

    There are 4.5 million dog bites reported every year in the United States, and approximately half of those reported bites are directed at children. The majority of dog bites occur in the home with a dog that belongs to family or friends. Toddlers in particular can be unpredictable with dogs. They might grab lips, ears, hair or tails. They may try to lay on top of a dog, take the dog’s toy, or chase nervous dogs into small, confined spaces. All of these interactions can test the tolerance of the most patient dogs. The goal is to set the stage for healthy, predictable interactions between kids and dogs at different stages of child development, let’s look at a few different ways we can make that happen. 

    Teach Your Kids to Understand Dog Body Language.

    The same body language applies to petting.

    Dog bites can happen when we decide to pet a dog, but ignore their body language. Dogs are more likely to bite when they’re not feeling well physically or emotionally. If a dog is experiencing an upset stomach, an undiagnosed ear infection, or if they are feeling stressed or nervous with noise or activity in the environment.

    Any dog can bite. To reduce risk of dog bites and to promote healthy relationships between kids and dogs it’s important to teach kids to read, recognize and respect what your dog is trying to communicate.

    Before we jump into the next exercise, let’s start off with some simple facts.

    1. Not all dogs want to be pet. 
    2. Most dogs do not like to be pet on top of their head. 
    3. Respect your dog’s individual preferences, there’s no benefit to forcing unwanted attention. 
    4. Petting can be contextual. This means your dog’s preferences may change depending on the time, place and person. We’re the same. Sometimes we want a hug, and sometimes we don’t. We might value a hug from a trusted friend, but feel uncomfortable being hugged by a stranger. And sometimes we just want space. Dogs are like that too. 
    5. If a dog says “no thank you” to petting – don’t take it personally.

    Try this next exercise.

    If you have a dog that enjoys petting, and seems comfortable with your kids – try this next exercise. You can also take a mental note of this exercise and apply these concepts the next time you or your kids meet a social dog at a family member or friend’s house. 

    Sit down with your kids and invite your dog to approach. If your dog approaches you can gently pet their shoulder or beneath their ear. Stop regularly and see what your dog says. If your dog steps forward or nudges your hand they are most likely saying “yes, more petting please.” 

    scared dogs licking lips and backing away

    If at any point your dog backs away, licks their lips, pulls their ears back or tucks their tail – these are nervous behaviors. Teach your kids that this is your dog’s way of saying “no, thank you.” The same would hold true if they showed any hesitation or reluctance to approach in the first place. It’s ok for your dog to opt out. This is your cue to move on to a new activity.

    Reading to Your Dog.

    Set up a reading space where you can sit with your kids and read stories to your dog. Older kids can practice their reading skills by reading familiar books. This is a great calming activity for young or excitable dogs, and it’s a great trust building exercise for nervous dogs. Encouraging this activity can also help kids develop a more positive attitude towards reading. In the end, it’s a win-win for everyone.

    Search Games.

    Have your dog wait on a training mat or platform while your kid hides a high value piece of food. It’s important to pick something that your dog loves. Once the item is hidden you can have your kid walk back to your dog and say “Find it.” Then encourage your dog to find the hidden item. You can play a similar game with one of your dog’s favorite toys. Beatrix loves search games that involve her blue dumbbell. If your dog doesn’t have a solid “wait” or “stay” you can keep your dog on a harness and leash instead. Start with easy finds and gradually build up in level of difficulty as your dog shows you they understand the game. 

    Next, I want to show you different games that are well suited to different age groups. A 4 year old will need games with simple rule structures that focus on easy to understand concepts. As kids grow they will be able to practice games with multiple steps and advancing mechanical skills. You might even find that these games will improve your dog’s ability to walk on a loose leash, or teach your dog to be more reliable at coming when called. I’m a big fan of fun training games with real world carry over.

    Positive Training.

    Kids love the idea of training with dogs. And it’s easy to understand why, as one of my kids once said “it’s like we speak the same language!” And this truly is the best part of training – the more you do, the closer you become, especially if you are implementing positive reinforcement based methods. That being said, it’s important that adults spend the time training with dogs first. Once the training is well rehearsed it can then be generalized with kids with a much higher level of success. 

    One of the biggest challenges when it comes to teaching kids how to train with a dog is that they are quick and erratic in their movements. This is especially pronounced if kids are nervous about a dog taking food from their hand. It’s important to respect each individual’s comfort level and find an exercise that meets everyone’s needs and abilities.

    “Hopping Lily Pads” – A game for ages 3 to 5.

    Young kids, ages 3 to 5 will love this training game. I call it “Hopping Lily Pads.” Show your little one how to deliver treats one at a time on a Lily Pad. These are actually called Poly Spots that are commonly used for kids in athletic programs.  Have your kid deliver 3-5 treats at each Poly Spot. Then call out a new color and have your kid move to the next spot. The reason this game is so helpful is because it teaches kids to invite dogs to approach them, instead of advancing on their space. Interactions should always be posed as an invitation, never forced. Delivering treats to a spot will also promote confidence in kids that might be nervous about delivering treats directly to a dog’s mouth. This is also a great idea for dogs that might be uncertain or “grabby” when taking treats. The Poly Spots create a physical target that will make the rules of the training easier to understand. A parent or guardian should actively supervise these interactions so that they can offer guidance as necessary.

    A game for ages 6 to 9.

    Older or more confident kids, ages 6 to 9, may do better with moving exercises. Set the Poly Spots in a line about 2-3 feet from a fence line or wall. The Poly Spots should be spaced out at 4 foot intervals. Your kid can walk from Poly Spot to Poly Spot, stopping at each one. Once your kid stops, your dog will likely stop also. Have your kid deliver food to your dog when they stop. It doesn’t matter if your dog is standing or sitting, as long as your dog has four paws on the ground.  This exercise encourages calm, indirect body language and will improve trust and communication between dogs and kids. You may also find that this exercise can carry over to a better connection and synchronization of movement when out for walks or on a hike.

    Hide and Seek.

    Another fun game is to show your dog a favorite treat, and then hide. This is a variation of the search game we talked about earlier. Be careful not to do this with kids that are nervous with dogs, or dogs that are nervous with kids. Some kids might find it scary to have a dog dashing in their direction. And dogs might become scared if kids unexpectedly jump out from a hiding spot.

    Relaxation Stations.

    Relaxation Stations.

    Toddlers and young children should be actively supervised whenever they interact. Make sure that your dog has access to safe spaces where they can relax without the constant worry of kids interrupting their naps or forcing unwanted petting. Sit down and talk to your kids about what it means to give a dog space when napping or resting. Baby gates can provide peace of mind when you are on a phone call, preparing food or if you are unable to actively supervise for any reason. 

    boy on couch with drink cuddling with black dog on his lap

    There are 4.5 million dog bites reported in the United States every year, half of those bites are directed at kids. Those bites are predictable and preventable. We can make this better – so if you find the information in this video helpful, please share it. Teach your kids to be more aware of what your dog is telling them through body language and behavior, and encourage others to do the same. Harmonious interactions between kids and  dogs is all about planting seeds of respect and kindness early on. It takes time, patience and understanding, but there is nothing more beautiful than watching those relationships flourish.

    If you liked this video and you want to learn more about positive and effective methods to address behavioral issues in dogs, check out these playlists. These playlists provide insights into behavior modification training for dogs that exhibit anxious, reactive, hyperactive or aggressive behavior.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

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  • Stop Puppy Biting, Barking and Jumping

    Stop Puppy Biting, Barking and Jumping

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    Puppy biting can be very frustrating. This blog is going to lay out a few different strategies to help you stop puppy biting, barking and jumping for attention. But first, it’s important to note that puppy biting in particular is a normal and natural part of your puppy’s development. Puppy biting is a social behavior, it’s their way of asking someone to play. Biting can become more intense when a puppy is over-stimulated, frustrated and when they are over-tired. The same can be said for barking and jumping.

    People can sometimes encourage these behaviors in the early days and weeks that a puppy comes home because it’s hard to imagine that it could become a problem later on down the road. 

    two boys playing with a toy multi-poo puppy on a blue rug

    Puppies that are raised in a home with kids are also more likely to exhibit these high arousal behaviors as most kids are typically a little louder and more active than the average adult.

    We will discuss the do’s and the don’ts of teaching puppies not to bite, bark and jump. The ultimate goal is to teach your puppy to greet and ask for playtime in a calmer and more polite manner, which can help stop puppy biting.

    Rule #1: Create Calm Associations with Your Hands

    woman hand feeding mulit-poo puppy on a red training mat

    DO teach your puppy that hands are for teaching, not for biting

    Sit down with your puppy for 5-10 minutes, once or twice each day to work on calming exercises. Build a reinforcement history for calmly standing, sitting or lying down on a training mat. With repetition these are the behaviors your puppy will default to when they are asking for something they want like food, attention or playtime.

    Use your puppy’s meals, and/or supplement those meals with a moist, meaty, nutritious training food that can easily be broken down into small pieces without crumbling. 

    DON’T grab your puppy by the scruff, hold their muzzle shut

    Don’t do anything that might result in your puppy becoming apprehensive, fearful or defensive with your approaching hands. This type of advice is common, but it can also set the stage for a contentious relationship with your puppy. Some puppies will become hand shy and others will become combative when you address undesired behavior in an aggressive manner.

    Rule #2: Healthy Outlets for Playful Behavior

    multi-poo puppy biting on a tug toy as he plays with woman

    DO make playtime with your puppy part of your day-to-day routine

    Give your puppy access to 3-4 toys at any given time. Rotate your puppy’s toys every 2-3 days to build even greater interest. Experiment with toys and chewies that have bumps and ridges that will feel good on your puppy’s sensitive gums. You should also put aside 2-3 special toys,  like a soft tug or two squeakie tennis balls. These special toys should be saved for one on one time with you and your puppy. I usually set aside 5-10 minutes, 2 or 3 times each day for focused play sessions. 

    Play is one of the best ways to build a stronger bond with your puppy, it will also create a healthy outlet for their playful energy that would otherwise be expressed through biting, jumping and barking.

    If your puppy becomes over-stimulated in play and begins barking, biting, jumping or mouthing – make a point of keeping your play sessions low key. It’s also a good idea to teach your puppy what I like to call “The 0-60 game.” I encourage puppy parents to alternate between calming exercises on a training mat or inside an open door crate and a 30-60 second play session. Ping ponging between these two activities will teach your puppy how to regulate arousal by going from calm to excited and back to calm. 

    DON’T use your hands to roughhouse with your puppy

    I love playing with my adult dogs by getting on the ground and gently pushing them around. My dogs might respond playfully by gently placing their teeth on my hand or arm. But they also have the ability to read social cues and regulate play, which means that they know when to slow down and when to take a break. 

    two boys playing with a puppy with their hands

    I avoid playing with puppies with my hands because they aren’t as skilled at reading social cues and regulating play. Most puppies will not understand why it’s ok to bite on hands in some situations, and not in others. It’s a good idea to avoid sending mixed messages.

    Regulating playful behavior is a developmental skill that takes time and maturity to learn. You can help your puppy learn this skill by giving play time a little more structure and context to play in their first year. Their “special toy,” like a tug toy or squeaky tennis ball, will become the green light for play time, while hands will be more like a yellow light that will encourage your puppy to slow down and be calm.

    Rule #3: Alone Time

    puppy relaxing half way out of his crate on the grass watching people go by

    DO make sure to have quality one-on-one time as well as quality down time

    Make a habit of scheduling potty breaks, training sessions, playtime and “watch the world sessions” into your puppy’s daily routine to make sure that your puppy’s physical, mental and emotional needs are being met on a daily basis. It’s also a good idea to give your puppy regular opportunities to relax or nap in a safe, gated area. 

    DON’T leave your puppy to roam freely when unsupervised

    puppy biting on a purple portable crate

    This will set the stage for bad habits to develop. Puppies that are unsupervised might eat your plant, chew on electric cords or bite, bark and jump to get your attention when they’re feeling bored. Yelling at your puppy in those moments is not going to solve the problem, because … negative attention is still attention. 

    This is why it’s so important for your puppy to have alone time in a safe, gated space when the attention is not 100% on them. You might be thinking – “won’t my puppy just bark in the gated area?” The answer to that question is most likely – yes, unless you condition your puppy to that space first. And if you want to learn how to do that, you should probably check out this video I created called “How to Crate Train Your Puppy for Separation.”

    Spoiler alert, most of the training is done with an open door crate and a gated area. 

    Once your puppy is adequately conditioned to this space, it will become a valuable asset when you are eating dinner, watching a movie, writing an email or making a phone call.

    Rule #4: The Art of Redirecting your Puppy

    puppy on womans lap looking at her while she pauses

    Coming back to “Calm”

    Even if you are doing everything right there still might be times that your puppy bites, barks or jumps. In these moments it’s important to focus on helping your puppy come back to calm.

    You should freeze, draw your hands back to your chest (pause) and then show your puppy what you want them to do. Practice training exercises that are incompatible with barking, biting or jumping. If you are doing daily training exercises, it should be easy for your puppy to connect the dots. 

    I will usually continue training for 5-8 minutes inside of the puppy’s gated space and end the session with a calming activity, like giving the puppy a chewie or a stuffed kong. With repetition you will find that it will become easier to prompt your puppy to offer desired behavior, and that your puppy will offer these behaviors more and more in place of biting.

    What about screaming “OW” in a high pitched voice, or saying a stern “NO?”

    Attempting to suppress behavior through verbal reprimands is usually counter-productive. In your first few attempts this approach might appear to “work,” but with repetition puppies will become desensitized to these sounds or words, or worse, it can add to the excitement of the situation and make the biting even more intense.

    Rule #5: Calming an Overstimulated Puppy

    woman sitting outside a dog gate while puppy chews on a bully stick on a training mat i the kitchen next to his crate

    Gated areas are golden

    There will be times where your puppy is so hyperactive that they will not engage in training or will revert back to hyperactive training after the training ends. This is usually a sign that the puppy is tired or overstimulated. When this happens it’s a good idea to walk the puppy into their gated area for a training session. I do this for three reasons:

    1. Changing the environment can change the puppy’s mindset.
    2. The puppy might associate the space with calming exercises and getting into a learning mind set faster because of that association. 
    3. If the puppy continues to bite I have the option of stepping onto the other side of the gate.

    DON’T isolate your puppy

    If it’s necessary to step on the other side of the gate, I will almost always sit down next to the gate and give the puppy a chewie or a stuffed KONG. Your presence will help to promote calm behavior and this is a huge part of the training. The goal is to help your puppy learn to de-escalate and come back to calm. Leaving your puppy alone in this space when they are in a state of high arousal is likely to have the opposite effect.

    What about using a shaker cans or a spray bottle to get the puppy to stop barking and biting?

    Aversive tools and approaches can damage your relationship in multiple ways. With more timid or insecure puppies shaker cans and spray bottles can create trust issues that can negatively impact your relationship with your dog into adulthood. More confident puppies might develop a callous to the punishment, which usually results in people using more and more aversive methods.

    The last problem is that these approaches work to suppress behavior, but they do nothing to teach the puppy the skills they need to manage and think through excitement and frustration in a constructive way. Instead, help your puppy learn how to regulate arousal by practicing the calming activities mentioned earlier. 

    Puppy biting can be extremely frustrating, hopefully these tips will help you transform these challenges into an opportunity to bring your puppy’s training and communication to a new level.

    If you found this blog helpful, check out, “6 Pillars of Raising a Legendary Puppy!” and “How to Potty Train a Puppy“.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

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  • 10 Common Mistakes People Make In Behavioral Training

    10 Common Mistakes People Make In Behavioral Training

    When training doesn’t go to plan it’s common for people to blame the dog. Instead you should ask yourself how you can be a more effective teacher. This blog looks at common mistakes in behavioral training and what can be done instead to work through problem behaviors associated with fear, anxiety, aggression or hyper-activity.

    Mistake # 1: Avoid stifling reactive or excitable behavior

    Stifling or suppressing behavior is a short term fix that can lead to more stress, frustration and anxiety. Suppressing behavior has the potential to create more intense and less predictable behavior in the long term.

    The Solution

    We need to train proactively, not reactively. Train in situations in which your dog is able to offer calm and engaged behavior *with ease*, and systematically build towards more challenging real world scenarios.

    Mistake #2: Doing “too much, too soon”

    We try to train in situations that are beyond our dog’s capabilities.

    The Solution

    You need to break down one big goal into smaller, achievable steps. If you feel stressed or frustrated by the training, your dog probably feels the same way. Breaking things down ensures that you and your dog are set up for success every step of the way.

    Mistake # 3: Training without a management plan

    Our dog’s environment and routine shapes behavior. If your routine puts your dog into situations where they frequently practice undesirable behavior, like barking, lunging or snapping, those behaviors will become more habitual and more difficult to modify.

    The Solution

    Sit down and come up with a solid management protocol that will minimize or prevent exposure to triggers that generate undesirable behavior. Stick with the protocol for a 3 month block of time, or longer, even as your dog begins to make progress in training. It’s important to give your dog plenty of time to practice healthier habits, before you “take off the training wheels.” (so to speak)

    Mistake #4: Trying to stop bad habits, instead of creating good habits

    There’s only so much progress that we can make when we focus on what we don’t want, instead of focusing on what we do want.

    The Solution

    Start training simple behaviors that can replace undesirable behavior. For example, teaching your dog to check in with you in the presence of distractions is a great way to work through behavioral issues related to high stress or over arousal.

    Mistake # 5: Blaming failure on your dog

    People will say things like “he knows better” “he’s stubborn/ dumb/ defiant/ or dominant.” These labels create false assumptions about a dog’s motivation and abilities.

    The Solution

    Set the stage for success. If training ever feels like you’re “pulling teeth” that’s a good indication that criteria or training conditions need to be adjusted.

    Mistake #6: We underestimate the power of environmental cues

    A lot of times when we think about training we think of verbal cues. We fail to realize that the environment is also teaching our dog to behave in a certain way.

    The Solution

    Stop putting so much emphasis on verbal cues. Train your dog to freely **offer** behaviors. Then teach your dog to offer those behaviors in response to environmental distractions.

    Mistake #7: Believing that our dog “knows better”

    There are times where we go “over threshold” in our day to day routine. Times where we lose rational thought, struggle to control impulsive behavior, or communicate effectively with others. The same is true of our dogs.

    The Solution

    Your dog’s behavior is a reflection of underlying physiological responses, like elevated cortisol levels and adrenaline (stress hormones). The best thing to do if your dog appears stressed or over-aroused is to practice calming exercises that conditions calm responses with triggers. The same exercises should improve communication, trust and help your dog feel safe.

    Mistake #8: We focus on abstract goals, instead of concrete behaviors

    Try as you might you can’t make your dog be social with people or dogs if they don’t want to. In fact, our best efforts, bringing a nervous dog to a dog park or to social gatherings, usually backfire.

    The Solution

    Focus on well defined behaviors. If your dog is nervous in social situations you should focus on teaching them what they should do when they are stressed, like checking in with you or moving away from the trigger. Training should focus on actionable steps that are easy to follow.

    Mistake #9: Placing too much emphasis on good or bad days

    Training is a process. Every dog, just like every person, has good and bad days. This can lead people to stop training if their dog seems to be doing better or get frustrated and quit if their dog has a rough day.

    The Solution

    Be steady and consistent. Create a well thought out training and management plan and then stick with the protocol. Have a clear understanding of how to adjust conditions to your dog’s ever changing needs. Having a training “flow chart” will help you work through the tough days, it will also help you know how to advance your training if your dog is ready for the next step.

    Mistake #10: Assuming that change is impossible

    A negative mindset is the biggest obstacle to positive change.

    The Solution

    You gotta believe. Even on the hardest days you need to know that change is possible. It all comes down to knowing how to create the necessary stepping stones. Effective training breaks goals down into achievable steps that are fun and engaging for both you and your dog.

    Join the Discussion

    What was your biggest take away from this article? Join the discussion on this Facebook page: Behavioral Training for Anxious and Reactive Dogs. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

  • How To Crate Train a Puppy

    How To Crate Train a Puppy

    Crates can be useful for travel, if your dog ever needs to stay at the vet, or to keep puppies safe and out of trouble for short periods during the day. 

    woman with grey shit and blue jeans standing in bedroom while puppy is relaxing in crate

    Crates can also be used for puppies at night, while they sleep. Dogs are social animals, it’s ideal to place a crate right next to the bed so that they still feel safe in close proximity to you. 

    Avoid using a closed door crate for more than 1-2 hours during the day. Overuse of crates can be detrimental to a puppy or adult dog’s emotional and physical well-being. 

    It’s a great idea to leave an open door crate inside of a gated area or exercise pen. This will allow your puppy to enter or exit the crate of his or her own choosing and will set the stage for a puppy that has a safe, secure place to stay if they need to be left alone.

    Let me show you how to introduce this gated area to your puppy so that your puppy develops positive associations with this space and it can ultimately be used for alone time when you are taking a shower or if you need to leave the house.

    These training exercises require a high rate of reinforcement. In some cases you can use your puppy’s meals for training. You can also supplement those meals with a moist, meaty, nutritious training food that can be easily broken into small pieces without crumbling.

    Step 1: Positive Associations with a Mat

    woman in black shirt and blue jeans sitting in kitchen floor hand feeding puppy on a red training mat

    Start off by offering food on a training mat. Be generous with your reinforcement.

    Reinforce for 15-20 second periods of time. Calmly say the word “good” with a warm, genuine voice as you feed your puppy. Avoid giving your dog a verbal cue, like “go to place” or “stay.” Leaving these verbal cues out of the picture will help your puppy learn to offer these behaviors without always having to hear a cue.

    Step 2: Positive Associations with the Crate

    woman with black shirt reaching into puppy crate to scatter food

    Teach your puppy that the crate offers an abundance of good things. Place their training mat inside the crate and then scatter food on the mat. Give your puppy the opportunity to walk in on their own four paws. Patience is key. Avoid the temptation to push or place your puppy inside the crate. The end goal is to have a puppy who happily and willingly walks inside of their own choosing.

    Step 3: The Turnaround

    woman in black shirt deliver a treat to puppy in crate who is turning around

    Capture and reinforce your puppy the moment that they turn back in your direction. Be generous and offer them as many rewards as possible before they have the opportunity to walk out. 

    If and when your puppy walks out of the crate – freeze and withhold food for about 5 seconds – before placing a little piece of food back inside the crate. With repetition your puppy will learn to orient towards the crate, even if you’re sitting there with food in hand. Remember not to use the word “crate” or “stay” or “no” – we want the puppy to be problem solving, and to ultimately offer these behaviors on their own without needing to hear the cue.

    Step 4: Stepping Away, Return and Reinforce

    puppy relaxing in crate within a gated area in the kitchen

    Once your puppy is choosing to go in the crate of his or her own choosing and seems to be settling inside, you can begin to raise criteria. I very rarely leave puppies in a closed door crate during the day. Instead, I like to train puppies to use open door crate crates inside of a gated area or exercise pen. To teach the puppy to settle inside of a gated space, you can step on the other side of the gate. Take a step or two away and then step back and reinforce your puppy. Repeat this a few times over before opening the gate and giving your puppy a break.

    Step 5: Break Time

    puppy taking a break and drinking some water in the kitchen

    You can encourage your puppy to take a break by drumming on the ground in front of the crate. The break will give your puppy an opportunity to get a drink of water, to give your puppy an opportunity to potty or to just .. hang out.  The best learning happens when puppies have short intervals of time to step away from the training, and process newly acquired information. 

    In the early stages, the break should be relatively calm. You don’t want your break activity to overshadow your training. After your puppy takes a 30-60 second break you might find that your puppy is ready to walk back to his crate in anticipation of more training. If this becomes a common occurrence, your puppy might be ready to move to the next step.

    Step 6: I’ll Back in a Flash

    woman with white shirt and blue jeans creating some distance away from the puppy in a crate within a gated area

    It’s a good sign when your puppy starts to trot back to their crate after a short break. If my puppy appears calm and relaxed with me on the other side of a gate I will:

    • Grab something from a nearby table, walk back and reinforce
    • Step out of sight for a second, walk back and reinforce
    • Sit down on the couch for 5 seconds, walk back and reinforce

    How Often Should I Practice?

    flow chart explaining what to do if you notice certain stress signals

    What if my puppy stops taking food, begins to stress whine, bark, bite or scratch at the gate? If you see any signs that your puppy is distressed: give your puppy a break. When you come back to training, work on a more basic version of the same exercise.

    Drop back to a variation of the training where your puppy offered a higher level of success. You can always build from calm, confident behavior.

    When Can I Leave My Puppy Alone?

    Make training part of your daily routine with your puppy. You can use breakfast and dinner as an opportunity to connect with your puppy and build value for calm behavior inside of “safe space.” 

    Practice these exercises for 5 minutes, once or twice a day for 5-10 days. If you are not consistent with the training, or if your puppy already has a negative association with the space or with the crate – you may need more time.

    Step 7: The Final Touches

    puppy chewing on a bully stick on a blanket on the kitchen floor

    To close the gap between these formal training sessions and practical use of this space.

    I will start off by having the puppy in their safe space with a special chewie while I take out the trash or water the outside plants. 

    When you do this, it’s ideal if the puppy has already had other mental and physical needs met. For example, I might do a short play session, make sure they have an opportunity to go potty and sit outside with them for 10-20 minutes for a “watch the world” session. If their physical and mental needs are already met, they are more likely to curl up for a nap once they walk inside their gated safe space. 

    woman with grey shirt drinking coffee and relaxing on couch with 2 adult dogs

    I personally love having my adult dogs up on the couch with me, or sleeping in my bed at night. That being said, if I’m raising a puppy I like to set them up so that the majority of naps and nighttime sleep happens in their gated safe space or a crate. 

    I make sure that the coziest spot to take a nap during the day is inside an open door crate. I also usually have a puppy sleep in a closed door crate next to my bed at night in their first year. The more that a puppy associates the crate and/or their gated area with rest and relaxation – the calmer your dog will be when you have to leave them alone, to take a shower, leave the house, or if they have to stay at the vet. 

    This space also becomes incredibly valuable when you are trying to calm your puppy piranha. 

    If you have an adult dog that you are trying to crate train, check out How to Crate Train an Older Dog in 7 Simple Steps.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

  • Dog Behavior Training is Like Meditation

    Dog Behavior Training is Like Meditation

    In many ways behavioral training is all about mindfulness. Let me share with you five similarities between behavioral training and a mindfulness meditation practice.

    1. A Relaxing Start

    black dog relaxing on turf next to a woman with orange jacket

    It is important to start training off in a low stress, low distraction environment in the same way that meditation is generally practiced in a quiet room with candles and relaxing music. It can take time to work up to “Times Square” level distractions.

    2. A Mindfulness Mat

    dog trainer working with a belgian malinois on a red mindfulness mat

    Calming exercises with your dog will be done in combination with a comfortable mat, just like meditation is initially practiced when sitting on a pillow or in a comfy chair.

    3. Thinking Through Challenging Situations

    belgian malinois dog training through challenging situation with woman riding on bike in street

    In the same way that we go over threshold in our day to day lives our dogs can also hit their limits.  With help your dog can improve their ability to think through stress or over-arousal.

    4. The “Carry Over

    dad and daughter sitting in green grass with a happy and calm dog

    These exercises, once established, can be used to promote calm behavior throughout your dog’s day, in your home, on walks, in any context. Similar to the way that practicing meditation can carry over to many different situations in our own lives. 

    5. Creating Joy

    light brown small dog very happy being pet by woman

    Behavioral training is about bringing out the best version of your dog by minimizing stress and enhancing communication. The result is a joyful and harmonious relationship with your dog.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

  • Food at Work in Shaping Behavior in Animals

    Food at Work in Shaping Behavior in Animals

    Food Shapes Behavior

    The acquisition of food shapes behavior. Birds, foxes, ants, and bears – all animals – learn and practice behaviors that result in the acquisition of viable food. Their ability to forage, track, chase and hunt are all behaviors that are fine tuned on a daily basis.

    Regulating Emotional Responses

    Not only does the acquisition of food shape behavior, but it also regulates emotional responses, strengthens bonds for those species that live within social constructs and enhances problem solving skills. In essence it is what makes them mentally and physically fit to survive in the world in which they live.

    The Dog Bowl

    Taking all this into account, it’s easy to see why feeding dogs in a dog bowl leaves a lot of empty space in a dog’s routine. The mental and physical energy that would normally be utilized by the dog’s brain and body can otherwise fuel the most common behavioral issues like reactive, anxious or aggressive behavior.

    Using Food for Training and Enrichment

    This should be an everyday occurrence. It can be used to promote calm behavior in your home, to provide mental workouts, to strengthen social and emotional skill sets and it can help your dog thrive. 

    Being a dog in our busy, modern world isn’t always easy. Training is the best way to offer guidance and bridge the divide.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

  • How to Train a Fearful Dog

    How to Train a Fearful Dog

    Dog Profile

    Specs

    Beatrix a 12 pound terrier mix. Initial training began at 11 months of age.

    History

    Beatrix was rescued from the city shelter at 8 months of age, she was picked up as a stray.

    Behavioral Concern

    People entering the house. Beatrix exhibited fearful behavior, like running away when she saw people on walks, and barking when people entered the home. In some cases, she attempted to nip at people’s heels. Her behavior with guests persisted long after the person had entered the home, and regardless of how many times she had met an individual.

    The Process

    Step 1: Setting goals and expectations

    The goal here was to minimize stress, and teach her to check in or go to her training mat whenever she became nervous or uncertain.

    Step 2: Implement Management Strategies

    When guests came over, we used a harness and leash.

    • We asked guests to ignore Beatrix, even if she approached to sniff.
    • We kept Beatrix in a bedroom, where she felt safe, when training wasn’t possible
    • We avoided taking her places where we expected she would be overwhelmed.

    Step 3: We established base training

    We worked on skill sets outlined in the online classes I teach. This included training check-ins with controlled distractions, as well as mat work with duration, distraction and distance. These exercises created a strong reinforcement history for being calm and engaged, it also put focused, engaged behavior on cue.

    Step 4: We integrated unfamiliar people into set-ups

    The goal was to create conditions in which Beatrix was capable of acknowledging a person without reacting. A successful session was measured by an increase in focus, engagement and relaxed body language over the course of 5 minutes of training.

    Step 5: Integrating Training into Real World Scenarios

    Once Beatrix was responding well to set-ups in neutral environments, we started practicing the training in less controlled scenarios at home with a significant level of success.

    In Conclusion

    In general, keep your dog on leash if you have any concerns that they might bark, charge or nip at guests in the house. 

    Management and training is still implemented based off of Beatrix’s behavior and body language. Overall, the intensity of fearful behavior and the time it takes her to recover has diminished. Her threshold has increased and her ability to connect and respond to cues has greatly improved as a result of the training I implemented

    Beatrix is now capable of being calm and engaged in situations that would have previously triggered barking, lunging or running away. The training has given her the opportunity to be more engaged in our day to day activity and family adventures.

    Let me know if you found this helpful. Please be sure to subscribe for more videos on Youtube and leave a comment on this blog page.

  • 10 Rules You Need to Know About Reactive or Aggressive Dogs

    10 Rules You Need to Know About Reactive or Aggressive Dogs

    One trigger vs. many triggers. Sometimes our dog’s reactive behavior is easily linked to one specific environmental trigger and sometimes, it’s not. Stress accumulates. The better you are at reading and responding to subtle signs of stress, the more effective you will be in training. You don’t always have to know what causes the stress in order to help your dog work through it.

    Rule #4: Have A Good Management Plan

    A good management plan is just as important as a good training plan. The more often your dog practices certain undesirable behaviors, the more habitual those behaviors will become. Changing the environment or your dog’s daily routine is sometimes 100% necessary in setting the stage for successful behavior modification.

    Rule #5: Make Sure it’s Not Only the Squeaky Wheel That Gets the Oil

    There are two ways that a dog can respond to a stressful situation; they can either behave in an active manner or a passive manner. Their response might change depending on the context of the situation. Both require the same level of attention and understanding.

    Active Manner

    Dogs that have a tendency to actively respond to stress triggers are more likely to receive training attention. (barking, growling, charging)

    Passive Manner

    Passive stress responses usually go unnoticed or are dismissed as being “just fine.” Those are dogs that shut down or exhibit more subtle stress signals. Both require the same level of attention and understanding.

    Rule #6: Working “Under-Threshold”

    Excessive barking, sudden loss of appetite, ADHD type behavior, stress whining, clinginess (wanting to be picked up, demand barking, jumping or pawing for attention) are just some of the symptoms that your dog has hit their stress threshold. Giving your dog more space away from the stress trigger, or removing your dog from a stressful environment, is the best way to help meet your dog’s needs and prevent regression in training.

    Rule #7: Predict, Prevent, Practice

    ​Assess your dog’s behavioral responses and then use that information to predict and prevent undesirable behavior. Once the initial assessment is conducted you should no longer be testing your dog, you should be training your dog. This means that you should be setting them up to practice the behaviors that you do want to see, while minimizing the probability that they will fall back to less desirable tendencies.

    Rule #8: Capture Calm Behavior

    Don’t let your dogs good behavior go unnoticed, reinforce it. Sometimes we only train with our dogs when we are seeing the problem behavior. Successful training is about being pro-active. Make training a part of your daily routine so that you are routinely reinforcing your dog for behaviors that you love, instead of solely reacting to problem behaviors. 

    Rule #9: Be Prepared

    You don’t always know when a teachable moment will present itself, don’t be caught off guard. Have the necessary tools at hand to help set the stage for success: high value treats, harness, leash and training pouch are a few functional training tools to have at hand in a moment’s notice.

    Rule #10: Choose Your Reinforcement .. Wisely

    happy howies dog food treats packaging on white background

    The value of the reinforcement you use, relative to the level of distraction in your training environment, will determine the efficacy of your training program. Consistent, reliable responses require a high value reinforcer. You’ll get the most traction from a training food that is moist, meaty, aromatic, and easy to break into small pieces without crumbling. A tennis ball or a good tug toy might be worth its weight in gold if your dog has high toy drive. Conversely, giving a dog a dry biscuit, a pat on the head or a “good boy” is generally not significant enough to yield solid, reliable training results.Post navigation

  • Do’s and Don’ts of Helping Dogs to Become Friends

    Do’s and Don’ts of Helping Dogs to Become Friends

    This article applies to initial dog-dog introductions, as well as, those dogs that need “relationship therapy” due to fighting or tension that arises in their day to day routine. 

    Neutrality

    Minimize friction by being proactive. Put away the toys, keep bones in the cabinet, block access to socially significant “hot spots” where fights are most likely to occur (ie. sofas, beds, doorway thresholds), and avoid giving attention that could potentially generate conflict. Preventing fights through management is a critical part of helping two dogs develop a strong relationship. Stick with the protocol and re-assess your management protocol every 6 weeks. Every altercation could extend the training timeline. Erring on the side of caution typically leads to the best results.

    Forge a Bond Through Shared Experiences

    Take them for slow walks in new places. Exploring neutral territory is a great bonding activity. Be cautious if one or both dogs are reactive on leash. You might choose to walk on quiet trails where walks will be most relaxing and you are less likely to run into triggers.

    Parallel Training

    Place two training mats on the ground and reinforce your dogs for being at separate stations. “One for you, one for you.” This is a great way to establish calm, positive association in each other’s presence. Work on these exercises once or twice each day. To create a safe training set up for dogs that cannot co-exist in the same space, or that fight over food or attention, you can place one mat on the opposite side of a baby gate.

    What to do if and when you notice tension (ie. a hard stare, growling, snarling)

    Be Calm. Aggression stems from stress. Yelling or physically reprimanding a dog for aggressive behavior usually adds more fuel to the fire and can intensify subsequent fights. Be Prepared. When your dogs are supervised, have dogs on a harness, dragging a short leash. If there is tension between the two dogs – pick up the leash and lead him/her away from the other dog. When it makes sense, reinforce your dog for moving away from conflict. Try to avoid grabbing a dog’s collar when you notice tension, as this is often a sure fire way to start a fight. Keep a behavior log. Write down the date, time, location, observable behaviors, as well as, any other factors that may have contributed to the incident. This will help in establishing and implementing a more effective management and training plan. 

    Warning Signs are Good!

    Be thankful for growling, snarling and air snaps; this is a dog’s way of communicating that they are feeling stressed, and is the perfect time to calmly diffuse the situation. Many people want to “correct” their dog for  exhibiting these signs, and believe that this is the best way to “teach a dog not to be aggressive.” In reality, they are only addressing the symptoms – not the underlying cause of the problem. The other unfortunate side-effect of “correcting” warning signs is that your dog will learn to suppress warning signs, and go straight into fight mode. Have you ever heard people say “My dog attacked without warning”? This is usually because the dog was trained not to give a warning. Corrections can suppress behavior in the short-term, but in the long-term aggressive behavior can become more intense and less predictable.

    What to Do If Your Dogs Fight

    After you break up the fight you should secure both dogs on harness and leash and move them both to an environment that is more conducive to relaxation. Changing the environment can help them transition to a calmer state of mind. Reintroducing dogs in a calm, safe and controlled manner will ensure that neither dog will harbor resentment and make the rivalry worse.

  • 10 Things You Need to Know About Aggressive Behavior in Dogs

    10 Things You Need to Know About Aggressive Behavior in Dogs

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    This article is intended to help dogs that bark, growl, lunge, charge, snap or bite when interacting with people or dogs. Stress, generalized anxiety, chronic stress, frustration, pain or underlying medical conditions can all contribute to aggressive responses. Address any potential medical issues with your veterinarian and read through these tips before creating and implementing a behavior modification plan for aggressive behavior.

    1. The Importance of Management With Aggression in Dogs

    Solid management strategies is a critical component of an effective behavior modification plan. The more a dog practices undesirable behavior, the more habitual those behaviors become. Create visual barricades to reduce the intensity and frequency with which your dog barks at people or dogs through windows or fences. Walk your dog at times and in areas that are quiet. Help your dog relax in a safe space in your house when you have visitors come over. These strategies will facilitate progress when paired with an effective training plan.

    2. Keep a Behavior Log of Aggressive Responses

    Person with a grey sweatshirt holding a grey pen and a white pad of paper ready to write information down

    In order to work through aggressive behavior, we first need to get really good at predicting when it will occur. This can minimize the number of times our dogs rehearse aggressive responses. Keep a behavior log and use it to write down concerning behavior when it occurs. Write down:

    • Date
    • Environment (ie living room, kitchen, backyard etc.)
    • Time of day
    • Conditions that surrounded the event (events, resources, activities)
    • Behavior (avoid labels like “vicious” or “defiant” – use terms that describe the actual behavior like “lunged” or “barked.”)
    • Recovery time (ie. how long did it take for your dog to return to calm?)

    3. Suppressing Symptomatic Behavior

    Verbally or physically reprimanding a dog for growling, barking or snapping can easily teach a dog to suppress warning signs of aggression. When people say, “the dog bit without warning” this is usually because the dog was “trained” not to give warning. Respect warning signs and create space by moving your dog away from a person, dog or event that is triggering aggressive behavior. Do not use verbal or physical reprimands/corrections to suppress warning signs of aggression, like hard stares, growling, barking or air snapping.

    4. What should I do if my dog delivers a bite?

    If a dog delivers a bite, you should neutralize the situation by moving the dog away on a secure leash and harness. Avoid restraining the dog by the collar, isolating a dog, yelling or hitting the dog in such a situation. All of these responses can intensify the underlying emotional response. Instead, focus on redirecting the dog to an activity that is inherently calming. For example, go for a walk or stand or sit with the dog in a calm environment.

    5. Ambiguous Behaviors

    Know that wagging tails, licking faces, sniffing or rolling over to expose a belly are ambiguous behaviors. Many people mistakenly assume that these are indications that the dog is friendly, and wants to be pet or that they want to be “friends” with another dog. Sometimes that’s true, and sometimes this is actually an “appeasement gesture” that the dog is displaying to express stress or discomfort. Forcing unwanted interactions is a fast way to teach a dog to express discomfort in a less ambiguous manner, for instance, biting. If a dog has history of being nervous, or has a history of aggressive behavior, err on the side of caution, and give the dog space.

    6. The Importance of Neutral Body Language

    Petting, talking to, or staring at a dog that is uncertain can trigger an aggressive response. It may take several meetings for a dog to become comfortable. Some dogs never warm up to certain people, and will always need space. Neutral body language and patience are the most effective ways to generate trust with a nervous dog.

    7. Avoid having Strangers Feed Your Nervous Dog

    High value food can be a great way to condition a dog to have a “feel good” response to the presence of people that may otherwise generate stress. However, food should always be delivered by a trusted caregiver, not from the hand of a stranger. Coaxing a dog to interact with or approach a person they are uncomfortable with can create a conflict of interest that could result in an escalation of stress, and could lead to a bite.

    8. Fences and Tight Leashes Can Fuel Aggressive Impulses

    Trainers that train police or protection dogs use barriers and tight leashes to generate aggressive behavior. Leaving dogs outside in a fenced yard or walking your dog on a short, tight leash can have a similar effect. This behavior can generalize to other social situations, like greeting guests or people that they see on walks. If you live in urban or suburban environments do these four things to minimize the amount that your dog practices barking at people or dogs:

    1. Keep your dog in a central area of your home when you are leave the house. Avoid leaving your dog in a yard unsupervised for extended periods of time.
    2. Create visual barriers to windows or fences to minimize exposure to environmental triggers, like people or dogs.
    3. Walk your dog on a six foot leash, as short leashes will exacerbate reactive behavior, like barking and lunging.
    4. Enroll in a training program that uses positive reinforcement training to minimize stress and/or arousal that would otherwise fuel your dog’s aggressive responses.

    9. Avoid Aversive Methods, Training Tools and “Techniques”

    Avoid trainers or training recommendations that promote the use of aversive training tools to “fix” or “rehabilitate” dogs with aggressive behavior. Slip collars, choke chains, throw chains, shaker cans, remote electronic collars, bark collars and alpha rolls are likely to suppress behavior in the short term, but can exacerbate the underlying issue long term. There is only so long that you can keep a lid on a boiling pot of water before it pops!

    10. Learn About Canine Stress Signals

    Learn about canine stress signals and the manner in which they present in your individual dog. Recognizing early signs of stress can afford us the opportunity to give our dog the space they need when they are overwhelmed by a person, dog, or activity.  Dogs will escalate to more intense aggressive behavior when early warning signs are unnoticed, dismissed or suppressed.

    10. Learn About Canine Stress Signals

    Learn about canine stress signals and the manner in which they present in your individual dog. Recognizing early signs of stress can afford us the opportunity to give our dog the space they need when they are overwhelmed by a person, dog, or activity.  Dogs will escalate to more intense aggressive behavior when early warning signs are unnoticed, dismissed or suppressed.

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